The increasingly popular Happy Boulders offer highly concentrated world-class bouldering with hundreds of problems ranging from simple to impossible.
Long shadowed by it's more well-known brother, the Buttermilks, more and more climbers are realizing what can be found inside the canyon. Some say at the Happy Boulders your muscles will fail first, whereas in the Buttermilks its your skin. Visitors experiencing Bishop in the colder months can find shelter and warmer temps here rather than the exposed and wind-swept Buttermilks.
The rock, which looks brittle and crumbly with a quick glance, is surprisingly bomber volcanic Bishop Tuff. Just be weary on high top-outs that may not see much traffic. The boulders found here offer faces that test every technique. Most notably is the abundance of finger pockets, which are found everywhere. Mixed in with steep, gymnastic juggy overhangs and crimpy faces, as well as low traverses and unlimited eliminates and link-ups. Cracks of wide ranges can be found on the rim, along with easy and scary highballing... it's all here. The landings are flat, the boulders are jam-packed, and everyone in your posse will find what they're looking for.
Getting There
From US 395 in Bishop, take US 6 north out of town towards Benton/Chalfant/Tonopah. After 1.3 miles, turn left on Five Bridges Rd. Follow this down the straightaway around the left-hand curve, past the Aggregate Plant to a 4-way intersection where the pavement turns to dirt. Take a left on Chalk Bluff Rd. Follow for 2.3 miles and park on the left side of the road. The canyon can easily be seen to your right, up the hill.
Possibly the best moderate in the canyon.Start on the undercling/sidepull fin on the left of the overhanging face. Move up and right on sloped dishes up to a big move off a high left-hand crimp to a sloper (crux; an intermediate right-hand crimp can be used). After pulling thru the crux, gain the 'Africa Flake' (jugs/rest) and find nice positive pockets and edges to the top as the angle eases off....[more]