BETA PHOTO: Follow the bolts to the top anchor, which you cann...
Description
This face route heads up a less than vertical section about 50 feet right of Portant (5.6) that faces the same direction of Portent.
Climb up to the bolted wide cracklike system that starts about 20 feet up from the path, and it's a simple slab walk up to the first bolt. For an added move, boulder over the first bulge on the way to the first bolt (still a 5.9.)
After the first bolt, use the crack to move over a short vertical section, and then follow the bolts up the crack system to a mantle move at the fourth bolt. Continue upwards, where climbing is easier to the top anchors, which are obscured from view from the ground.
Protection
6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. A small piece of pro can be added to the crack crux, which is after the first bolt.
The route follows a crack that only takes protection in the one place mentioned in the route description. If you don't place a piece and rely on only the bolts you are risking a serious whipper if you fall. This is not a bolted crack.
Bruce
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Apr 5, 2006
I've led Wet Kiss probably a half dozen times. Personally, I find that trying to fiddle in gear between the first and second bolts is more effort than it's worth. You make the crux move with a bolt at your waist.
I don't place a piece either. I was trying to point out that, given the first comment, that this is not a bolted crack. The first ascentionists allow the leader to place more protection if they feel they need it and didn't just put in a convenience bolt.
Bruce
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Apr 5, 2006
I agree, Bruce, it's definitely not a bolted crack, despite the appearance in the photo above. The bolts are thoughtfully placed.
By Jeff Dopp From: Goodlettsville, TN Jan 27, 2008
Bolted Crack!! In my humble opinion using trad gear in any crack at the Pinns is at best adventuresome...at worst silly, and this comes from someone who has watched more than a few stoppers spinning down the rope at me while dropping onto the last bolt. If there is any area where bolts next cracks is nice...this is it!
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