Amazing face is to the right of the crack (that's ...
Description
A decent face route with some interesting moves. Apparently the most-wanted route in the area but I can't imagine why... The actual climbing on "Amazing Face" is pretty average, but you get a great view between your heels in the upper part of the climb. P.S.- The belayer gets two points for dropping a falling climber into either of the man-eating holes at the bottom of the route.
Protection
Eleven bolts and a three bolt anchor (no chains). Bring long slings if you want to toprope this climb.
By Aron Quiter Administrator From: Berkeley, CA Jun 25, 2002
Getting in and out of the caves was fun. Try the variation of using no grips below the first cave. Tons of resting places on the way up the slabby face. Climbing pretty straighforward.
I disagree with the quality rating. For the 5.9+/5.10a climber this climb is the best in its grade in the area for feeling up there and near veritical on a one pitch climb and with decent, but not juggy handholds. I still fondly look back several years ago when I first led it as a 'break through' climb. If thats your grade, you will love this climb! You can also scout your next break through on the 5.10c bolt route to the right
Amazing Face is a great climb! Had a buddy lead it as one of his first leads. He lead it clean. Following it I realized that for a beginner leader, the distance between the bolts and some of the body positions required to make one or two of the clips would make this quite exciting. No real hard moves but pretty continuous. Also, being quite used to Mickey's Beach rock, the sandstone takes quite a bit to get used to and certainly does not give you as solid a feel for the moves. Bolt Route to the right is more of the same great climbing, just a good solid number grade harder.
One of the best routes in the Bay Area. I have done it at least 15-20 times and I will never get tired of it. Highly recommended for beginning lead climbers if they are solid at the 5.9+ to 5.10 toprope level.
A must climb at the Diablo crag. Offers a couple of "scary" moves while leading. A very nice introduction route into sport climbing. I find most of the climbs here to require a LOT of balance, this route is a good warm up for the area.
Wow some climbers around here are hard to please. Don't let the indifferent attitude of the person who created the page for this route deter you. "Amazing Face" is a beautiful route and a classic by Bay Area standards IMO. It reminds of one of the pitches on 'Birdland' in Red Rocks. A route well worth doing again and again.
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