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Castle Rock Waterfall Cliff - Right side

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Castle Rock Waterfall Cliff - Right side

Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Aug 20, 2002
Administrator: Aron Quiter
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BETA PHOTO: Telephoto: Castle Rock Waterfall Cliff


Description 

Located in the trees to the right of the main waterfall, this area provides good sandstone slab climbing. Featuring climbs in the 5.7 to 5.12 range, this will prove a challenging area for any ability.

There are a few don't miss climbs in this section of rock: Clamydia (5.11d), and Putrefaction (5.11a).

Most of the area will be in the shade all day, but you will see the sun peeking through the trees often.

This area is crowded on the weekends, though you could be alone during the week.


Getting There 

Estimated hike in: 15 minutes.Distance: .9 miles

Starting from the main area parking lot, head into the main park using the Saratoga Gap trail. This will wind down a canyon crossing the creek for quite some time. At the second Fork in the road, travel accross the bridge and continue down to the observation area. The path that leads to this and other climbing areas in the area (the Muffins and Shady rock) is found by walking down the steep bank to the creek right to the left of a "dangerous cliffs" caution sign about 75 feet before the observation deck.

Wind down this path about 50 feet and then head uphill to the left of the cliff band. After about 400 feet of moderately steep path, you will come to a wide rocky and leafy gully ono the right side. The muffins can be seen ahead on the trail at this point. Head down the gully away from the muffins and other 15 - 30' rocks. you will approach bolted and unbolted climbs on the right side after 100 or so feet of downclimbing and slipping.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Castle Rock Waterfall Cliff - Right side:
The Greeboo   5.9+     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   
The Falls   5.10a R     Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
Degeneration   5.10a     Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70 feet   
Putrefaction   5.11a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70 feet   
The Oracle   5.11a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   
Clamydia   5.11d     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   
Browse More Classics in Castle Rock Waterfall Cliff - Right side

Featured Route For Castle Rock Waterfall Cliff - Right side
Mike Arechiga below the crux of "Clamydia" (5.11d) at CR Falls, Castle Rock State Park, California. The route is harder now due to broken holds.

Clamydia 5.11d  CA : SF Bay Area : ... : Castle Rock Waterfall Cliff...
This is a superb route requiring strong fingers, strong arms, and good balance and technique. The climb is found just right of the 5.7 Lieback corner route about in the middle of the cliff. The "clams" is an obvious rock formation about 35' up. Getting to the first bolt and past, to rest on ramp, is steep and fingery. Moving from the second to third bolt is a very difficult short traverse left to right on tiny holds. Moving up to the "clams"...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA