Located in the trees to the right of the main waterfall, this area provides good sandstone slab climbing. Featuring climbs in the 5.7 to 5.12 range, this will prove a challenging area for any ability.
There are a few don't miss climbs in this section of rock: Clamydia (5.11d), and Putrefaction (5.11a).
Most of the area will be in the shade all day, but you will see the sun peeking through the trees often.
This area is crowded on the weekends, though you could be alone during the week.
Estimated hike in: 15 minutes.Distance: .9 miles
Starting from the main area parking lot, head into the main park using the Saratoga Gap trail. This will wind down a canyon crossing the creek for quite some time. At the second Fork in the road, travel accross the bridge and continue down to the observation area. The path that leads to this and other climbing areas in the area (the Muffins and Shady rock) is found by walking down the steep bank to the creek right to the left of a "dangerous cliffs" caution sign about 75 feet before the observation deck.
Wind down this path about 50 feet and then head uphill to the left of the cliff band. After about 400 feet of moderately steep path, you will come to a wide rocky and leafy gully ono the right side. The muffins can be seen ahead on the trail at this point. Head down the gully away from the muffins and other 15 - 30' rocks. you will approach bolted and unbolted climbs on the right side after 100 or so feet of downclimbing and slipping.
This is a superb route requiring strong fingers, strong arms, and good balance and technique. The climb is found just right of the 5.7 Lieback corner route about in the middle of the cliff. The "clams" is an obvious rock formation about 35' up. Getting to the first bolt and past, to rest on ramp, is steep and fingery. Moving from the second to third bolt is a very difficult short traverse left to right on tiny holds. Moving up to the "clams" is a stumper! Moving past the "clams" requires i...[more]Browse More Classics in CA