Eagle Peak - Restricted; Closed area changed to the left side of the main cliff. Corte Madera - Restricted; Closed area changed to the right/east side of the main cliff. Glen Cliff - Open. Poway Crags - CLOSED. El Cajon Mtn - Open.
This is an over hanging finger crack that widens as you climb. The first ten feet of this climb is the crux and great practise for over hanging aid. After the crux the climb backs off and the crack widens. If you want to learn aid climbing in relative safety this is a great climb to get started on.
Protection
Use small nuts and cams up to #2 towards the top of the climb. Two bolts at top of rock for anchor. Easy walk off back of rock.
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator From: Escondido, Ca Feb 22, 2006 rating: 5.11d C1
FA was John Bachar's onsight solo.
By G.McCay From: San Diego, CA Nov 22, 2006 rating: 5.11c C0
Here are some excerpts from an email from myself to JB regarding it's FA:
John, ...P.S. Fill me in on the story behind "I Hear My Train a Comin'" on Mt. Woodson. Rumor has it that you third classed this on it's first ascent. I've always wondered over the years. ==============================================
From: bachar Date Sent: Mar 4, 2006, 12:37 PM
Hey Gary! Thanks for the compliments! I'm pretty sure I did the first as a boulder problem but I also could have top-roped it first - just can't remember. I know I did Drivin' South as a bouldering first ascent however - pretty scary! cheers, jb ==============================================
And as far as the aid difficulty, it doesn't have one as far as I'm concerned. The site doesn't allow you to not post one. And btw, careful on doing any aid on this for it can damage it's integrity and may even change the route over time.
Peace,
Mr. McCay
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator From: Escondido, Ca Feb 2, 2007 rating: 5.11d C1
Aiding this problem isn't going to damage any of its "delicate features." If someone wanted to go to the trouble to aid it, todays finger-sized cams will easily get one up in a flash.
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator From: Escondido, Ca Jun 25, 2007 rating: 5.11d C1
My sometimes unreliable memory recalls Rick Piggot telling me that it had already been freed before Bachar's ascent. Locals had been bear-hugging up an oak tree and reaching out into the good finger locks past the crux.
Then Bachar showed up and onsight flashed it from the ground, and I think Rick told me it was 3rd classed too.
It sent all the locals running over there to try the additional moves.
The convenient tree limb is long gone now. And all this was in the 70's, before I was hanging out there.
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