This, one of the first lines on the wall is located on the left side of the east face and is the second bolted route from the left; it lies about 15' right of Fire in the Hole (5.10a).
Boudery moves on thin but positive edges start things off, and lead to a crux section moving past the 2nd bolt. Once past the crux, the holds increase in size and the angle kicks back to a slab for a short section before finishing on vertical jugs.
Great moves on excellent rock make this a popular climb on a popular wall. Orignally done with only two bolts (the second and third) and no anchors, it was later retrobolted which greatly boosted it's popularity.
By Bill Olszewski From: Colorado Springs, CO Jun 16, 2007 rating: 5.10b
This is a very fun and spicey lead for the grade. I think it is harder and more sustained than its neighbor, Fire in the Hole. Also a great warm-up for those getting on the 11's to the right (Motherload and Black Bart).
By Dave Daly From: Temecula, CA May 19, 2008 rating: 5.10a
I'll have to disagree with the previous comment seeing how there is only one tough .10a move after bolt #3. It's not sustained after that....perhaps 5.7/5.8 to the top. The opening moves may check in at 5.9.
Nice route though!
By Chris Owen Administrator From: La Crescenta, CA Jul 3, 2009 rating: 5.10a
Agreed that this is 5.10a - the initial section is quite crimpy. There's a great horn to sling between the second and third bolts, if you're inclined to look for natural ways to protect yourself.
By Brandt Allen From: Joshua Tree, Cal Jul 12, 2009
I would have to rate this as sustained 5.9 for the first three bolts, but couldn't say any single move was harder. I didn't see anything that would come close to being a "great horn to sling between the second and third bolt." Possibly something broke recently?
5.10a at the start and moving from bolt 2 to 3. I have to agree it felt like a 7/8 after that. Grab the jug/horn up and to the right of bolt 3 while clipping. Over the slab the feet are good, and there are solid edges on the last 10-15 feet to the anchors.
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