The right side of Motherlode Rock's north face is home to this fine route up the striking northwest arete, which from the west looks like the head of a giant lizard.
Start in a shallow right-facing corner around and right from Smackdown (5.8) and climb up and slightly left to a stance atop a pillar. Above the pillar the climb goes slightly right to gain the arete proper which goes slabby after a few moves and leads to the base of a short headwall. The next moves are the crux and involve moving off a good left hand in a shallow corner as your right hand pinches the arete to gain a horizontal (the Lizard's mouth) and then the anchors (these last moves are somewhat reachy).
Good exposure, enjoyable movement and quality rock make this a route to seek out on this portion of Motherlode Rock.
Location
Right side of the North Face on the obvious sharp arete.
By Dave Daly From: Temecula, CA Apr 18, 2007 rating: 5.9+
Confusing finish ???? Seems like it should take the extreme right side and finish up past the Lizard's right side of its mouth. Better moves although a bit dirty.
By Bill Olszewski From: Colorado Springs, CO Jun 16, 2007
For setting up a TR it would have been nice if this climb had its own set of anchors (the Lizard could use a nose ring ;-) But there's something fun about letting the Lizard swallow your right arm while you fuss with the anchor. Great climb!
By Jordan Ramey From: South Pasadena, CA Aug 6, 2007 rating: 5.9
Anchor has two sport clippers, so you can just clip and lower.
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