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Medicine Man 

5.7

   

FA: (TR) Loren Scott & Chris Miller, 7/97, FL: Chris Miller & Dave Masuo, 7/97
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.8- [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 40 feet
Views: 325 page views

Submitted By: C Miller on Jul 1, 2006


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Jon nearing the crux of Medicine Man (5.7), Holcom...


Description 

Up the vertical face left of Nervous Twitch (5.9+) is this fun and popular moderate. Large features down low lead to the crux, a short somewhat steeper sequence on smaller holds; the route finishes with a mantle onto a ledge with anchors.

Not as long or continuous in nature as some of the other routes of the grade here, but still a fun climb.


Protection 

4 bolts, chain anchors (shared with Thunderbird)



Photos of Medicine Man Slideshow Add Photo
Climber on Medicine Man

BETA PHOTO: Climber on Medicine Man

Mid-crux on Medicine Man (5.7), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles.

Mid-crux on Medicine Man (5.7), Holcomb Valley Pin...

Jodee on the thin upper moves of Medicine Man.

Jodee on the thin upper moves of Medicine Man.


Comments on Medicine Man Add Comment
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By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jun 16, 2007

Perhaps a heady lead for the grade but great moves. This is a fun route that should not be overlooked, whether looking for a warm-up or somewhere to TR for your newbie friends.

By Obi
From: San Diego, CA
Sep 10, 2007
rating: 5.7+

I agree with Bill - a little on the heady side for 5.7. May not be the best first lead for the rookie leader, but it's something that shouldn't be overlooked.

The moves may potentially be reachy for those of shorter stature.

By 5.10b4me
From: Alhambra, California
Apr 27, 2008
rating: 5.8+

thought this one to be harder than 5.7

By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Aug 7, 2008

I'm wondering if this one has uprated over the years. Maybe some holds have gone missing? Seems it was always a cruiser, now it feels much harder. Maybe I'm just getting old but my friends and I all thought Medicine Man to be harder than Bird Of Prey.

By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta, CA
Jul 3, 2009
rating: 5.8

Seems like a stiff lead at 5.7, steep with some trickiness I therefore give it 5.8.