Helen Shull bouldering the long Southside Traverse...
Description
Extending from the San Francisco Bay up to the Oregon border, the Northern coast of California is unique in its climate, laid back atmosphere, and its climbing. It's a bit off the beaten path for most I-5 travelers but the snaking Highway 1 and 101 cling to the coast and tie it all together with breathtaking scenery.
The climbing here is more subdued than many other California or Northwest areas and sees relatively little traffic. Many older routes and bouldering areas have little recorded information which can give the traveling climber a feeling of "new discovery" not found in many areas. Most of all, the climbing here is quite diverse with routes on sandstone, graywacke, limestone, gabbro, granite and quartzite. Where else can you grab some backcountry turns, fire off a route of two, hit the surf for a sesh, pull some highballs and still make the potluck by 6:00?
Getting There
Getting to the Redwood Coast involves winding roads, no matter which way you are coming from. From the Bay Area or the Oregon Coast follow Highway 101 north or south. From the Northeast (Southern Oregon, Portland or other Northwest locales), follow I-5 exiting in Grant's Pass to Hwy 199 to 101 south. From the East (Tahoe, Sierra, Colorado, etc) find your way to Redding on the I-5 corridor. Take 299 until you hit 101. The Eureka/Arcata area is the population hub of the Redwood Coast. Arcata is a college town and is home to Humboldt State University and has all of the usual amenities found around schools. There is a thriving music and bar scene (4 micro breweries in the county) with action most nights of the week. Gear shops are located in Arcata and Eureka. After a hard send, check out TOMO (click the Eureka/Arcata link for food and lodging) on the Arcata Plaza-Great Sushi!
When approaching the Visions Wall, the most dramatic arete of this cliff juts out overhead, extending above the tree tops. The route is primarily a sport climb but has some crucial gear between the 4th and 5th bolts.Start the route by crimping past 4 bolts to a good rest (5.10). The first part of the route is just steep enough to be interesting but the overhanging fun begins after placing a #2 and 3 camalot in the right leaning, juggy crack...[more]
By Rick Shull Administrator From: Arcata, CA Oct 24, 2006
A great guidebook for the Redwood Coast is Bigfoot Country Climbing. It is written and illustrated by Paul Humphrey and Eric Chemello and is available at gear shops in Arcata and Eureka. Both of these climbers have worked tirelessly to put up dozens of routes in the region.
Redwood Coast
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