Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
Ummagumma
Show routes:
Select route...
Ummagumma 
Ummagumma Crack 

Ummagumma 

V6-7

   

FA: John Bachar
Type: Boulder
Consensus: V6-7 [details]
Length: 15 feet
Views: 318 page views

Submitted By: sam.f on Jun 3, 2009


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

Sam sticks the first move on Ummagumma.


Description 

An obvious, striking line on the namesake boulder. Locate a massive hueco (starting hold), pull into this (shorter climbers may need a pad stack or jump start), fire for the next good hueco that is not-so-close. An accurate, powerful deadpoint will get you there. From this hold, most people match, then bust out left with a left hand, then negotiate the tricky, but not too difficult topout. You may wish that someone came-by with a push-broom for the top, but this is doubtful.


Location 

If approaching up the hill from B1/Turlock Area, this problem will be on the right-ish side and very obvious.


Protection 

Might want a pad



Photos of Ummagumma Slideshow Add Photo
Anonymous Bachar memorial at Boulder 1.

Anonymous Bachar memorial at Boulder 1.


Comments on Ummagumma Add Comment
Show which comments
By sam.f
From: Hollywood, CA
Jun 3, 2009

I'm not too sure about the grade on this one. I've seen it on 8a scorecards as V7, but that seems inflated (maybe due to the 8spray--er 8a origin). Maybe V7 is fair if you're short. I heard Bachar originally said 5.11 but that's quite a sandbag. It seemed 6ish to me, but it's all relative...