Start around the corner to the left - up onto a ledge then using a hold on the arete step around somewhat gingerly onto the sloping footholds, to be presented with the crux. A technical and balancy sequence leads to better holds. Now follow the arete as closely as possible to the tricky finish over the final obstacle. Classic and airy....[more]Browse More Classics in CA
I removed the chopped bolts late in 2007 so they are no longer a threat on that wall.
By Chris Owen Administrator From: La Crescenta, CA Apr 7, 2007
The TR bolt anchors which were placed over the lip of the wall have recently been chopped (4/4/07) - however, there are still plenty of ways to set up an anchor.
By Jordan Ramey From: South Pasadena, CA Jun 14, 2007
One bolt stud remains in the grove where the rope runs for the center route. Avoid running your rope over this stud. It is slightly loose in the sleeve. The right one has the flush sleeve remaining, but the stud is gone. (6/14/07)
There are numerous boulders on top; you can sling them quite easily. Be careful of your sling placement, as several have lost (and had to cut) their slings in the past. Cordelettes might be a better option and less prone to pinching.
I slung two boulders with 1" x 30' tubular webbing and used a #2 Omega Pacific Link Cam with a 7mm x 30' cordelette as a backup.
Don't forget to anchor yourself in at the top; you will have to create your master point several feet down to avoid rope drag, and there is nothing to prevent you from decking.
You can rap down, but it's a bit sketchy because you can't weight the master point until you're literally over the ledge (again, if you are anchored in then this should not be a problem).
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