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Johnny Can't Lead 

5.10d

   

FA: Dave Katz, Tom Grimes
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11a [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 40 feet
Views: 531 page views

Submitted By: veritus on Dec 11, 2006


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You and this route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Description 

Follows the line of large pockets between the right two caves. Very solid 5.10d. Last moves are beta intensive


Protection 

Overbolted with three open anchors



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By Ryan Kelly
From: the gym
Sep 2, 2008
rating: 5.11a

I think it's a fun route, I'm surprised it received so few stars. Granted the overhanging jug hauling so common at Malibu can get boring, but I think this one is far better than many other in the park around this level; and there’s a little bonus at the end of this one. Reminds me of Mr. Big or Rolling Blackout.

By scottydo
From: san diego, ca
Oct 11, 2009
rating: 5.11a

This is 11a now since the climb goes up to an anchor that is higher than the previous ones. This also adds a couple harder moves at the end of the climb bumping up the grade in my opinion.

By MisterE
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 26, 2009
rating: 5.11a

As of today, the upper two bolts have been replaced, both with 1/2" X 3" bolts. The second bolt will be changed out soon.

The climb should be more enjoyable now without the spinners.

I agree with the .11a rating.