By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Dec 15, 2006
Popular - definitely.
Even though Planet of the Apes is a "toprope only" crag, I would NOT recommend it as a good choice for beginners. The easiest route is 5.9, and everything else is 5.10+ and above.
I thought that Grape Ape (the 5.9), and a few other routes on this wall were sandbaged. A few other people climbing at the crag agreed with me. the 5.9 had super deep solid pockets almost all the way up and when the hand holds were not huge the feet were solid. There were a few beginners when I was there, and since it was TR only you have no problem putting caution to the wind and getting a good work out.
So why is this a top rope only area? Seems a waste of the most easily accessed cliff in the Santa Monica Mountains. Or to put it another way, these routes could be better than Echo because the rock hurt the hands less.