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Malibu Creek State Park
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Century Lake Area 
Ghetto Wall 
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Malibu Creek State Park

Submitted By: Jordan K on Oct 8, 2006
Administrators: Art Morimitsu, Jay Tanzman
Elevation: 900 feet
Latitude: 34.0961  Longitude: -118.7310 
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Here is the second traverse across from the Ghetto...


Description 

Sport climbing area with a number of excellent steep routes. Few routes below 5.10. Three main areas: Planet of the Apes Wall (good for top roping), the Ghetto Wall (steep cave-like climbs) and the Mash Boulder.

Park is open 8AM to sunset; no dogs. Parking fee (although free parking is available with a longer approach hike).


Getting There 

This area is located in Malibu Creek State Park off of the 101 Fwy via Las Virgenes Rd (b/n the 101 Fwy and the PCH on Las Virgenes), [ed. about 35 miles west of downtown Los Angeles].

Map


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Malibu Creek State Park:
Chopping Block   5.8     Sport   Stumbling Blocks
Guerilla Drilla   5.10a     Sport   Stumbling Blocks
Gorgeous   5.10a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Mt. Gorgeous
The Third Degree   5.10b     Sport   Stumbling Blocks
Johnny Can't Lead   5.10d     Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Ghetto Wall
Mr. Big   5.10d     Sport, 35 feet   Stumbling Blocks
Nipple Denial Syndrome   5.11a/b     Sport   Stumbling Blocks
Urban Struggle   5.12a/b     Sport, 1 pitch   Ghetto Wall
Browse More Classics in Malibu Creek State Park

Featured Route For Malibu Creek State Park
Clipping third bolt

Urban Struggle 5.12a/b  CA : Los Angeles County : ... : Ghetto Wall
Very short crux section. A few moves through superb pockets and pinches to jugs at the top. Have fun and try the alternate start jumping off the boulder and grabbing the shelf at the bottom. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA


Photos of Malibu Creek State Park Slideshow Add Photo
Jeese Groves (jumping) and Andy Patterson escape the heat on a scorching September afternoon in Malibu Creek State Park.

Jeese Groves (jumping) and Andy Patterson escape t...

A very tiny, juvenile Horned Lizard, spotted near the Planet of the Apes Wall, MCSP

A very tiny, juvenile Horned Lizard, spotted near ...

Chuck Brainard traversing over pond

Chuck Brainard traversing over pond


Comments on Malibu Creek State Park Add Comment
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By veedublvr
From: ?, Ca
Feb 19, 2007

The water was really high when I was there making it impossible to get to the upper canyon. The only wall that was accessible was the Planet of the Apes wall. Had a great time, though. Such a beautiful place to climb I will definitely be going here again.

I found the directions to the crag were pretty vague though, so I will give a stab at it.
Once you are in the park, there are two parking lots, park in the second one. If you keep going you will go around a bend into the campgrounds (20$ a night for tent camping, 50$ for RV's for all you wimps). From the second parking lot cross the paved street drop onto the road that crosses a creek it is paved for the first 200 feet or so then turns to dirt road. Keep going down the dirt road. You will see a fork on your left, don't go this way keep right. There is another fork in the road this time stay to the left. You will be walking along the river under a bunch of full oaks. After walking for a minute or two a bridge will come into view that crosses the river. There is a rather large white house on the other side of the river. From here you can see the large rock formations in the canyon to the Northwest. I forget exactly where the foot path is but it heads STRAIGHT for the bridge, once at the bridge you will see a path to your right (north) follow that path past a few park benches it will drop down to the river go around a bend in the river and there is the first rock formation(planet of the apes) To get to the rest of the routes cross the river, and traverse along the wall above the water. from here I do not know since the water was way to high and the traverse was under water.

By ZachS00
From: San Diego, CA
Sep 24, 2009

Several weekends ago friends and I made it to the Ghetto Wall by doing a lot of backpack tossing and swimming. Is there a dry way from where the path hits the big swimming hole to the Ghetto Wall?

By Rob Gordon
From: Hollywood, CA
Nov 9, 2009

Yes. You traverse on the South(?) side to get to Stumbling Blocks. Then walk on the south side some more till you can hop to a boulder in the water (right after the cave on the north side and before Ghetto Wall) and traverse the north side then walk across to Ghetto wall. The north side traverse is slightly more sustained than the first traverse. Staying higher seems to be easier, but i would be wary of falling because there are some rocks at the base under the water.

EDIT: I think there is a picture on here of the second traverse.