Figures on A Landscape (aka Monkey on My Back) 

Regarding the added descent beta above: rap anchors could not be located on the summit in January, 2002. Please post more specific info on the rap route instead of just "left shoulder." We looked everywhere. In any case, the walk-off is easy, though still 4th class-ish.

This may help in locating the first rap off the North Astro Dome- From the summit of the formation walk west (this would be towards the South Astro Dome) and then down towards the edge of the formation. This may be where the problem exists, because if you don't head down far enough you'll never spot the anchors. This photo may help in locating the rap anchors.

A generous leader would take along a cordalette, climb up, andclip it into the first bolt on the second pitch, belay through thatto give the follower a safer ride when they blow the crux sequence.Not sure how much added length is needed to achieve this. Thatbolt is the better part of 10' up.60m - long pitch + bolt = cordalette ?

Rap station is easily found just a little way down, on NE of NorthDome, located so that two raps would take generally down justout of the chimney between the domes, to the base of the route.Clear ?

Don't get suckered into stopping at the first belay on P1as I did last weekend! There is a second belay station around the bulge that you can't see.

There is a newer route that is 5.10c R/X that goes off the first belay (three bolts - 2 with rings). I saw a bolt above and just went for it, but a fall will be disasterous as youwill take out your belayer as the climbing is straight inline with the belay. Also, the rock is kind of sketchy so you stand a good chance of going for the ride. I luckily made itto the top without incident, but I was being ultra cautious.

If you do this P2 variation, you get no gear except forthe bolt about 25' up from the belay.

A true classic and absolute must-do route for both locals and visiting climbers. Make sure to be solid on 5.10, lest the climb become more exciting than necessary. As mentioned it's best to combine the last two pitches into one; a light rack to 3" is all that is needed besides draws & slings. All bolts and anchors have been replaced and are bomber. Five stars out of five.

There's a variation to the finish that I think is better than the left-facing dihedral in the description. When you're almost to the base of the dihedral you'll notice a lone bolt up and left. Friction out left past this bolt to a tips crack on the blunt arete. Follow this to the top. It's a bit more exposed than the dihedral and is great climbing.

The variation is called Go Figure (5.10b R) FA: B. Gaines & S. Cosgrove, and climbs straight up from the first belay of Figures past a single bolt to finish in the thin cracks above (there was a pin or two I believe). Runout, but on good rock.

This very crimpy route would be 11a @ owens river gorge. Overall good solid rock with big air potential.

This route is probably mentally the hardest route I have ever done. It is exciting and difficult from the first bolt all the way to the first belay and very continuous from the start to the beginning of the first traverse left to right. Bolts are set quite far apart with hard moves consistently several feet above bolts. At the beginning of the long left to right traverse, get a good rest as it's hard to get a rest at the beginning of the hard and final traverse moves to the P1 anchors. I may have just been too tired to get a good rest at the first set of bolt anchors. Although I was able to get a half jam using meat of thumb in the flakes there is definitely not a no hands rest. I was suckered into the low traverse (wish I read carefully this thread first...) as I didn't think my chances were too good and psychologically (and incorrectly) I figured the fall wouldn't be as bad. This way turned out to be a very thin, delicate traverse with a precarious balancy move to get hands finally on belay ledge and then an exciting high step and tenuous mantle to end the pitch. Would anyone comment on whether the upper traverse is more straightforward and/or easier? The second pitch is also very run out but a letter grade or two easier. Third pitch is a fun and secure steep corner with good gear the whole way. Definitely a 5 star and must do route!

Amazing route! Demanding and rewarding. It's not "R" though, not even close.

The best route I have ever done in Jtree. I lead both pitches and the scariest part of the climb for me came after the bolt on the second pitch. It got kind of runout for a little while. A severe fall if you mess it up. The fist pitch never got runout and was very memorable. *****

I have it on good information that the FA data is incorrect. This is actually FA: John Yablonski, Matt Cox 1976, sans bolts. This bold statement has never gotten the press it deserves. A later ascent, by some talented but misguided climbers tainted this pure expression of boldness. Every time the bolts are clipped, something is taken away from us all.

Put the bong down Murf.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=47353>>>>>

Had the distinct honor and pleasure to repeat this route with Dave Evans -- 30 years after our first ascent. The climb has great sustained moves and still demanded our respect. We felt pretty good still being able to climb this -- for a couple old guys.

Using a long runner on the 5th bolt (before making the long traverse right) certainly helps with potential rope drag. No need to put a long sling on the left hand belay bolt (as suggested above). Instead, having the rope clipped to a draw up high on the left bolt provides a good TR for the follower at the crux.

As the great shots above demonstrate, bring a camera on the route.

Classic story of how that Vogel dude used the nasty (aka AID) in the FA