What a fun route! So much fun in fact that there was an entire institute established in Yucca Valley where all they do is sit around all day and talk about how great a route it is (and if you believe that...). But seriously, Mental Physics one of those routes you can climb again and again.
P1: Climb 120' of sweet jamming to 3-bolt anchor (2 of which are good, one is old). Either rap from here with 1 60-m rope and a bit of downclimbing, or continue up P2: face climb (5.4?) past one bolt to top. Rap Dazed and Confused.
Curious about the name? It comes from Mentalphysics, which is a spiritual retreat center located on the western edge of Joshua Tree, right off Highway 62.
Protection
Standard rack to 3", 60m (or better yet, 70m) rope.
By Chris Owen Administrator From: La Crescenta, CA Jan 5, 2003 rating: 5.7
A beautiful route in a beautiful setting. Passive pro works very well in this crack. The second pitch is completely different from the first crack pitch but should not be missed especially considering that the summit of Lenticular Dome is a great viewpoint, the walkoff descent is fine.
My only complaint is the bolt anchor at the top of the crack, this is unecessa
I hesitate to say this; however, since a few of my climbing friends agree with me, I feel this route, as good as it is, is no more than a solid six. One could screw it up above the crack and make a seven out of it--or more; but it's five six at the most. It's outstanding for someone learning to lead.
For the approach, it seemed a little easier if you walk past the route (from the wash next to Lenticular Dome) until you're about alongside the roof of the route called Unknown (to the left of Mental Physics). If you cut in right from there and start scrambling up, it seems a little easier.
If you plan to rap this route, it is recommended that the second climber checks no one is starting to climb Dazed and Confused (to the left of Mental Physics).
I would not exactly downrate this route below 5.7 but I felt like more of the 5.7 moves came on pitch 2.
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator From: Escondido, Ca Jun 22, 2004 rating: 5.7
Very nice route. Yes, people do it barefoot, but who cares? I often think that it is not allowed for there to be a route of great quality that is under 5.11 Anyway, the wander to the bolt on the second pitch is cool. One can examine DandC while leading this. Highly recommended.
Splendiferous! Another must-do in my book. Worth the hike in, nice sun exposure, overall I was a happy camper. When I think of fun days, I think of that time with Mindy getting lost in San Fran and the day I climbed this route.
ATS, you say that you think there cannot be a route of outstanding quality under 5.11. What in the hell does that mean? There are interesting climbs of all grades.
Very fun climb that has that "way back there" feel to the location. Besides a couple of hikers, we didn't see anyone in this neck of the woods.
The crack on p1 is very fun and as stated earlier pros up with nuts and hexes very well. The second pitch is a little runout right off the belay, but eases up in difficulty quickly.
Will
By C Miller Administrator Feb 22, 2005 rating: 5.7
A very good route that's well worth the hike. It's highly recommended to lead this in a single pitch and then rap Dazed And Confused (5.9) to the left or (if that's occupied) do an easy scramble down slabs to the climber's left. Don't miss the great views of San Gorgonio from the summit! Four stars out of five.
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator From: Escondido, Ca Mar 16, 2006 rating: 5.7
The second pitch seemed to me to be solid 5.7 for the first 10-12 feet past the two-bolt anchors, then it eased off to 5.4 for the next 15 feet to the only (bomber) protection bolt. From there to the top is also no more than 5.4.
By Ryan Kelly From: the gym Sep 30, 2008 rating: 5.6
The first pitch is probably the best 5.6 in the park.
By Joe M From: Rapid City, SD Jan 11, 2009 rating: 5.7
Such a great route! Definitely a must do. Very well protected. Most of the moves are probably 5.6 (with only a couple 5.7 thrown in), but given how continuous and sustained it is, I think it deserves a solid 5.7.
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