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Atom Smasher Boulders B-52 Rock Bear Island Bobcat Rock Brownie Girl Dome Castle, The Convenience Store, The Cool Dome Deli, The Dunce Cap, The Ellsmere Island Financial Wall Flying Fortress Foot, The Fortress, The Gilligan's Island Grey Giant Grinch Rock Hidden Dome Hooter Rock Ivory Tower Key's Point Lemon Dome Lime Dome Looking Glass, The Middle Kingdom Mustang Ranch New Jersey Dome Outer Mongolia Outward Bound Slab Patch Dome Reggie Dome Seitch, The Smith Rock Suicide Horn Rock Super Block, The Super Dome, The Super Slab, The Timbuktu Towers Tombstone, The |
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DescriptionThe North Wonderland (and the Wonderland in general) is the antithesis of the "bumper belay" crags found in Indian Cove. Although flat, approaches are as much as 3+ miles and 1+ hours of hiking. As such, it sees less traffic than most areas of the Park. Those who venture out will be rewarded with some classic obscure lines as well as a respite from the crowds at Hidden Valley and Lost Horse. Getting TherePark at the "Key's Corner" Trailhead, 1/2 mile east of Trashcan Rock along Quail Springs Road. This will be on your left at a wide right turn if you are driving from town. Most areas lie to the north and are accessed by the Wonderland Trail. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Wonderland North:
Kodiak 5.5 Trad Bear Island
The Chief 5.5 Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet Reggie Dome
Cross-Roads Finish 5.7 Sport Outer Mongolia : Siberia
Pops Goes Hawaiian 5.7 R Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet Reggie Dome
Yasmine Bleeth 5.9 Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet Outer Mongolia : Siberia
Fresh Squeezed 5.10a Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Reggie Dome
Dos Chi Chis 5.10a Sport, 2 pitches, 240 feet Outer Mongolia : Siberia
Aftermath 5.10a Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet Ellsmere Island
Bighorn Dihedral 5.10b Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet Suicide Horn Rock
Too Secret to Find 5.10b Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Hidden Dome
Spirited Away 5.11b PG13 Trad, 3 pitches, 220 feet The Dunce Cap
Hyperion 5.11d Trad, 3 pitches, 180 feet Grey Giant
Hydra 5.13c Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet The Super Block
Featured Route For Wonderland North
 Begin at the left end of the south face and climb a low angle crack (some loose rock) that eventually becomes steeper and arches right underneath a large roof. The crux (11d), protected by a #00 TCU, black alien, or small stopper, entails committing moves to the portion of the crack where the roof begins. From here, underclings and hand / fist jams for 80 ft. lead to the anchors (sustained 5.10).Pitch #2 (5.10) is a short traverse and...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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