Graham past the technical crux. "The roof isn't t...
Description
This classic route lies on the north end of the west face and requires, like a lot of Josh routes, to be adept at several styles of climbing.
A start past some horizontals gets you to a ledge with a left-leaning thin crack which thins and dies, with the crux being a balancy lieback past a bolt. Higher, easier moves lead to a stance below an impressive roof, which despite appearances from afar goes easily with a perfect hand crack splitting it.
Belay from gear (pro to 2.5") and walk off or use the anchors on the neighboring Rollercoaster and don't forget to set a directional piece for your follower.
A great route to do at least once every season, this route has a lot of fun moves packed into it's short length. Four stars out of five.
Indeed a great route. Maybe I was having a bad day but for me this route was harder than Clean and Jerk - perhaps comparable to Bearded Cabbage in overall difficulty?
Great climb, although short, with two fun cruxes. For me the technical crux (layback/weight shift near the bolt) was not as hard as the roof crux. This to me felt harder than the roof on Illusion Dweller. Just not very secure for my fat hands. I didn't think this route was as hard or as pumpy as C&J, though.
The route was perfect in all ways. I used two large cams under the roof to portect it. Did a sling v thing directional with a magic x. There is a definite sequence of hands. Oh! the little flake that protrude out from the line will catch the rope, watch it! I found this route much easier than Clean and Jerk. The quiet at Roller Ball is quite good place to concentrate, unlike Clean and Jerk.
Whoever placed the bolt on this is either way tall, or a moron (or both..or placed it on rappel without checking the clip stance). You have to commit to the technical liebacking crux before reaching the bolt, which you could have clipped from a secure stem rest stance if it were placed 12" down and to the right. There's a chain anchor on top well positioned for this and Rollercoaster. The climbing is great, roof is fun hands/thin hands, go do it.
I'm the one who replaced the pin with a bolt. Like Tom says - "It is as close to the original placement as possible" - otherwise the character of the climb would be altered. Glad you enjoyed the route.
Btw, the anchor on Rollercoaster works fine provided a directional is used (see route description).
By vegastradguy From: Henderson, NV Oct 28, 2007 rating: 5.10b
you can totally clip the bolt before committing to the crux- just work it out.
that said, thanks for the bolt- it made committing to that crux alot easier.
finally- that roof is the most fun you'll ever have on a 5.10 roof!
Bolt placement is high but explaination accepted. I did have to make a few moves to touch it but not too difficult. Crack below can be protected with small TCU's or brassies.
Man, that's a lot of beta for a girl who just cleaned it. Next time...she's mine!
Rollerball Formation
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