Randy ascending with impeccable crack climbing tec...
Description
This route, located on the lower tier approximately 125' south of a bolted waterchute (Hot Dog in a Bun), ascends a sustained vertical finger to hand / fist crack. As the route name implies, there are some jagged edges in the crack but the rock quality is good.
Protection
This climb protects well with small to medium sized cams and medium stoppers. Medium sized cams are needed for an anchor.
Do not be put off by the name. We were surprised at how good this route is; it looks like the classic Josh grain-fest. Instead, the inside of the crack is water polished (though it still has crystals). It also seems pretty stiff for 5.9 (I'd say 10a). It will have 2 stars (out of 5) in the new guide (Vol. 2).
Oh' it's 10a. I thought it was the F18's that made it hard. Led it many years ago and right at the crux two USMC F18's made a low, (300ft or so) pass up the canyon. Got so griped I fell off!
By C Miller Administrator Nov 11, 2003 rating: 5.9+
Decent climbing for the area...most of the cracks tend to be a bit sharp anyways being so close to Jumbo Rocks.
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