This route is on the west face and climbs a crack to face past a bolt that leads directly to the rap anchors for the formation.
Climb the heavily featured crack until it dies out, where a combination of sidepulls and grainy edges gains a bolt which protects a long move to a visibly flexing flake the size of a hardcover book...gingerly pull down and not out on the flake and make the final moves to the anchors.
A fun climb with some intricate movement that's easily toproped from the anchors if you don't feel like leading it. Worth doing if only to witness firsthand the amazing elasticity of the local quartz monzonite as evidenced by the fragile, flexing flake. One star out of five.
Apparently, they climbed the route to near the top, then exited left? and up the arete (avoiding the crux section where the bolt is currently). So, the current route is really a direct finish.
I cannot figure out how this is a 5.10a. It seemed much easier. The start and crack are juggy, and the friction moves at the top were straight forward.
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Jan 4, 2009 rating: 5.9+
Good route, on par with Planet X in quality and definitely worth doing if in the area.
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