This justifiably popular climb lies about 25 feet from the very end of the narrow corridor on the right. It and Railer, Bikini Beach, and G-String all start at the same spot (and share the 1st 2 bolts).
This 5 bolt, overhanging face route heads straight up face and seam. Many shorter climbers will want to stick-clip the 1st bolt as the move getting to it is a bit reachy.
The powerful "lock-off" crux is past the 1st bolt, though the pump factor makes the moves past the last (5th) bolt seem pretty hard too. This climb is easily (and often) top roped (bring slings to extend rope over the edge).
Protection
5 bolts, 2 bolt anchor (extension sling needed to lower or TR)
By C Miller Administrator Nov 11, 2003 rating: 5.12b
Originally bolted on lead with only three bolts by Kurt Smith (two more bolts were later added with his permission).
This excellent route has a powerful boulder problem crux passing the first bolt, an easier middle section and another crux (5.11+) sequence at the last bolt. The route finishes in a hand crack after the last bolt (though listed on this website as a sport route a single piece of pro may be desired if leading). Easily four stars out of five.
when I did this route (back when murf was sporting purple spandex and a 3ft pony tail), the lower crux was a dyno to a rail and the upper crux was the business. Now the rail is lying on the floor, and the lower crux seems like the hardest part. I think it could be .12b or harder now.
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