Queen Mountain

Eastern section of Queen Mountain from the parking...

Description 

Queen Mountain has some of the most beautiful and remote climbing in all of Joshua Tree National Park. The climbs are predominantly traditonal with a smattering of sport routes, although for the most part the face routes are traditionally bolted. There are several distinct sub-areas, some of which are the Cirque of the Climbables, The Pearls, Olympic Dome, The Frontier Wall, The Summit Area and Walt's Rocks. The rock quality is excellent, with some of the best varnish climbing in The Park. Raging classics include Perfect Fingers (5.10a), Icon (5.10c), Treasure Of The Sierra Madre (5.10d), White Rain (5.11a), The Bloodline (5.12a) and many, many others.

Getting There 

There's no two ways about it, the approaches are LONG! Either hike from the dirt roads to the south of the peak or from the Uncle Willy's parking area. Allow 1.5-3 hours for the approach.

Featured Route For Queen Mountain

White Rain 5.11a  CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Walt's Rocks

White Rain is a fantastic mixed pro climb; one of the few to get 5 stars in Randy's guide book. The route begins on a large boulder uphill from Mojave Queen (5.11a). It is prudent to stick clip the first bolt before stepping onto the steep face. Sustained face climbing past six bolts on fine patina brings the climber to cruxy moves that gain the short finger/hand crack. A few challenging moves in the crack lead to the top....[more]

Add Photo Photos of Queen Mountain

The road into Queen Mountain. Photo by Blitzo.	Wash below Queen Mountain, Joshua Tree.	Giant Nolina (Nolina parryi), Joshua Tree.