Left of Classic Corner (5.7) and across from the blocky Cockroach Crag is this left-facing corner system/ramp. Good jams on clean rock make this a worthy tick if in the area and a sunny location makes this a good route to do on those chilly afternoons, although there is little to no protection from the wind. Perhaps one star out of five.
Protection
pro to 3"
Add PhotoPhotos of False Classic Corner (aka The Case Of The Missing Nolina)
BETA PHOTO: False Classic Corner
Me leading the route.
Add CommentComments on False Classic Corner (aka The Case Of The Missing Nolina)
Climbed it over the weekend thinking it was the classic corner.Definitely a 5.8 getting around and above the roof.There is a set of bolts and new rap webbing a little bit up and to the right of the route.One rope rap to ground (we had a 60m).
Definitely NOT a 5.6 going around the roof. I think it was down-graded in the latest book which it should not be. I'd put it at at least hard 5.7 and maybe harder. I cruised Classic Corner (5.7) but really struggled with this one. Shorter climbers in our group found False CC easier. Maybe it's a height thing?
I am tall, and I found False Classic Corner a lot harder than Classic Corner, which was a cruise. I am weak at thin hands and that may have had a lot to do with it.
We got down via the tight little chimney. No fatsos allowed!