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California
> Joshua Tree NP
> Lost Horse Area
> Rock Garden Valley
> Rock Garden Valley -…
Smithereens
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.6 from 245
votes
Routes in Rock Garden Valley - Left Side
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Beck's Bet T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Candyman TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Double Dogleg T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Euthenics T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Euthyphro T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fortune Cookie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Griffin, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Holly Device T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Lewd and Lascivious Conduct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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MZM (Maria Zink Memorial) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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On the Side TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Personal Space TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pop Rocks T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Rock Candy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Rock Dog Candy Leg TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Rock-a-Lot T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Silent But Deadly T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Smithereens T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Spitwad T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Split Personality T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sugar Pops Variation TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Top of the Pops T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Unknown T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Yi T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Young Lust T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
| GPS: | 34.0215, -116.1777 |
| FA: | Ed Kaufer and Scott Hoyle, 1979 |
| Page Views: | 5,935 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | C Miller on Dec 31, 2004 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This route and it's neighbor (Young Lust) lie on the shorter face left of Rock Candy and climb heavily featured thin cracks with lots of varnish.
Boulder up (small wire helpful) into a thin crack (crux), pass a horizontal around mid-height and then move past a large flake/ear and many features to finish in a right-slanting thin crack. The anchor is set back from the edge on a comfortable ledge so if planning to toprope you'll need to extend it.
Roughly the same difficulty as Young Lust, but the varied climbing and more interesting moves make this the better of the two routes. Two stars out of five.
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