Smithereens 

FA:  Keith Cunning et al 1979 Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.8+ [details] Length:  1 pitch, 50 feet Views: 310 page views Submitted By: Chris Miller on Jan 1, 2005 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Just getting started. Photo by Neale Brain.

Description 

This route and it's neighbor (Young Lust) lie on the shorter face left of Rock Candy and climb heavily featured thin cracks with lots of varnish.

Boulder up (small wire helpful) into a thin crack (crux), pass a horizontal around mid-height and then move past a large flake/ear and many features to finish in a right-slanting thin crack. The anchor is set back from the edge on a comfortable ledge so if planning to toprope you'll need to extend it.

Roughly the same difficulty as Young Lust, but the varied climbing and more interesting moves make this the better of the two routes. Two stars out of five.

Protection 

pro to 2", bolted anchor/rap (3/8")