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California
> Joshua Tree NP
> Lost Horse Area
> Rock Garden Valley
> Rock Garden Valley -…
Young Lust
5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.7 from 252
votes
Routes in Rock Garden Valley - Left Side
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Sugar Pops Variation TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pop Rocks T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Top of the Pops T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Silent But Deadly T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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On the Side TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Unknown T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Holly Device T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Griffin, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Fortune Cookie T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Spitwad T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Euthyphro T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Euthenics T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Young Lust T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lewd and Lascivious Conduct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Smithereens T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Yi T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Rock-a-Lot T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Candyman TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rock Candy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Rock Dog Candy Leg TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Double Dogleg T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Split Personality T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Personal Space TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Beck's Bet T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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MZM (Maria Zink Memorial) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Ed Kaufer and Scott Hoyle, 1979 |
| Page Views: | 6,211 total · 25/month |
| Shared By: | C Miller on Dec 31, 2004 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Face climbing with the occasional jam is the name of the game here with the crux a thin move above a horizontal crack around mid-height.
Higher, as you near the top the protection is somewhat scarce, but the generous nature of the holds makes this of little concern.
- The anchor is set back from the edge on a comfortable ledge so if planning to toprope you'll need to extend it.
Location
This route and it's neighbor Smithereens lie on the shorter face left of Rock Candy and climb heavily featured thin cracks with lots of varnish.
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