This route is the obvious crack to the right of "Golden Years". You start off a block into a right facing corner. My advice here is to place your pro then layback the crack. Near the top, traverse right under an overhang then up again. Surmount the overhang at the top. Beginning this route via "Golden Years" is more interesting. One more thing, the overhang at the top is no more than 5.4; however, one must have the usual five senses.
I'll use "Feltonian Physics" to make a couple of observations on technique and protection:(1) I seldom if ever see anyone using laybacks(liebacks)when that particular technique would be advantageous: the start on "Feltonian Physics" would be easier and more pleasant; the first ten feet or so of "Touch and GO" also; and, wandering off a bit, getting to "The Elephant's Ear" on the "Open Book" goes 5.7 as a layback.(2) On and off over the years, I've had cams pop on me that I felt were well placed. Last year in Colorado, I place the "ideal" cam in an "ideal" crack on an overhanging 10a and leaned back to take a rest; I took a twenty footer. I've gone back to carrying a few tri-cams; they take longer to place but are often much more reliable. They are also far superior in horizontal, flaring cracks. In Red Rocks, they can be placed quite nicely in the erosion holes that one often comes across. If you're concerned about them loosening up, set them hard and sling them. Last, they are cheap.(3) Small wires(I carry a mix.)seem to many young climbers a mystery. "You trust those?" I've heard a couple of times. Not only do I trust them, they expand your options for pro placement. Many times when wanting to place pro(and most definitely needing to place pro)I've fallen back on the wee wires as the only option and been damned happy to have them along.
Fun climb with a lot of variety. The wide part might be a little tricky for some, although it's really not much (if any) harder than the first twenty feet of White Lightning. A #4 camalot comes in handy.
I'll tell you what, coming out of the traverse into the crack between the two boulders on top was intimidating! I kept trying to mantel the ledge under the boulders but kept hitting my head on the roof they made. I was exhausted and just flopped my belly on the ledge and caught my breath while seeing what to do. I finally mantled the ledge with my right arm only, reached my left hand high in the crack and and let myself swing back under my hand jam and finished it. Kind of an advanced motion that I wasn't expecting on a 5.8. I loved the climb!
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