Valdes snapped this shot from the top of DQ Wall a...
Description
This route climbs the featured, vertical crack left of Hot Fudge. The climb is not overly sustained and eats up small gear primarily. The crack can be used to jam in a few places only, especially if you have bigger hands, but face holds are abundant for both hands and feet. A bit easier climb than Mr. Misty Kiss, which goes at the same level in Vogel's guidebook. Very shady climb, no matter the time of day with its NE orientation. After leading, build a belay or use the anchors above Hot Fudge to bring up the second. Enjoy this fun route with many others near the same level on DQ Wall.
Protection
Gear up to 3", but primarily little stuff - nuts and .5 camalot or smaller except for the top of the route where a #3 can be placed. 2" and 3" gear can be used to top rope or build a belay anchor if desired.
2 stars, well OK, but now I see Murf has given Black President only 2 stars! What gives here? If BP is 2 stars, do any routes really deserve 3 stars? I sense a converging of quality ratings, soon every route (including Boulder Crack & Fluff Boy) will have 2 stars.
By Mike Epke From: Denver, CO Dec 7, 2003 rating: 5.7
I agree, this should be 2 out of 3 stars, I mistakenly marked 3 out of 3 when putting the route up. Enjoy this fun climb.
Fun route. Lots of jugs and it protects really well. This has to be the easiest 5.7 in Joshua tree. I think it is more like an easy 5.6. Build a belay rather than using the toprope anchors for the neighboring 5.9 because the area is REALLY CROWDED.
By Chris Swope From: Greeley, co Mar 15, 2006 rating: 5.7
I found this route to be a little soft for 5.7 but I still thought it was a really fun lead. The steepness of the line made it all the more fun.
By Obi From: San Diego, CA Oct 5, 2006 rating: 5.7
I agree with the others - one of the easiest 5.7's you'll find. A good route for the novice leader as it eats up gear and the moves aren't too strenous.
Essentially you can treat this as a easy very protectable very secure straight forward 5.5 bucket climb (if your taller) or a contrived 5.7 crack-only for fingers/hands and feet climb. This climb seems easier than other 5.3s in the park. Ditto on great lead for the inexperienced leader. Need thin to perfect hand sized and bigger pieces for the belay up top from what I remember.
Dairy Queen Wall - Right Side
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