Left of Classic Corner (5.7) and across from the blocky Cockroach Crag is this left-facing corner system/ramp. Good jams on clean rock make this a worthy tick if in the area and a sunny location makes this a good route to do on those chilly afternoons, although there is little to no protection from the wind. Perhaps one star out of five.
Protection
pro to 3"
Photos of False Classic Corner (aka The Case Of The Missing Nolina) Slideshow
Climbed it over the weekend thinking it was the classic corner.Definitely a 5.8 getting around and above the roof.There is a set of bolts and new rap webbing a little bit up and to the right of the route.One rope rap to ground (we had a 60m).
Definitely NOT a 5.6 going around the roof. I think it was down-graded in the latest book which it should not be. I'd put it at at least hard 5.7 and maybe harder. I cruised Classic Corner (5.7) but really struggled with this one. Shorter climbers in our group found False CC easier. Maybe it's a height thing?
I am tall, and I found False Classic Corner a lot harder than Classic Corner, which was a cruise. I am weak at thin hands and that may have had a lot to do with it.
We got down via the tight little chimney. No fatsos allowed!
By Kyle Wills From: San Diego CA Dec 28, 2008 rating: 5.8
Agreed, Classic is a cruise comparatively. However, I definitely found this route MUCH more enjoyable. What a finish!
By dcgusto97 From: Palm Desert, CA Mar 15, 2009 rating: 5.8-
An interesting finish to say the least. A fine route to do when planning to do Classic Corner. I thought the first move off the deck was a little interesting - especially since Mr. Vogel said 5.6 on this one! Glad to see most posters are in agreement and have upgraded to a more appropriate grade.