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Cockroach Crag
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Classic Corner 
Climb Of The Cockroaches 
Fabulous T. Gordex Cracks, The 
False Classic Corner (aka The Case Of The Missing Nolina) 
Leatherhead Arete, The 
R.S. Chicken Choker 
Roach Roof 

Classic Corner 

5.7

   

FA: Scott Cosgrove, January 1988
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.7 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 30 feet
Views: 588 page views

Submitted By: Mark J. Nelson on Jan 1, 2003


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BETA PHOTO: Classic Corner


Description 

Not much ambiguity here. It's a clean, right angle, right facing dihedral, into a roof, which you pass with the handcrack on the right.

There is (or was, as of January 1, 2003) a loose block a few feet up in the crack. You can choose to either crank on it, thereby changing the lower section of the climb and possibly injuring your belayer, or carefully avoid it, thereby leaving the climb intact. I recommend the latter. :)

There's a downclimb to climber's left.


Protection 

This corner pretty much soaks up gear; you can sink as much of a standard rack into it as you want, but won't need anything particularly large (up to a #2 Camalot is fine) or small (leave the micros behind.) Save a handful of pieces for the anchor on top.



Add Photo Photos of Classic Corner
Mark nearing the top of the route.

Mark nearing the top of the route.

Fred Batliner low on the route.

Fred Batliner low on the route.

Fred @ the crux.

Fred @ the crux.

Top section. Fred Batliner climbing.

Top section. Fred Batliner climbing.

Perspective view - Stefan Harms liebacking.

Perspective view - Stefan Harms liebacking.

Al Dude sans rope in 2006.

Al Dude sans rope in 2006.

Gearing Up

Gearing Up


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By Chris Miller
Administrator
Nov 4, 2003

This beta photo is not of Classic Crack but rather of another route to the left called False Classic Corner (aka The Case Of The Missing Nolina) (5.6)*. This climb pictured is a left-facing corner/ramp while Classic Corner is right-facing and steeper. The Leatherhead Arete (5.11a)** climbs the obvious arete between the two routes.

By Anonymous Coward
Jan 20, 2004

Is anyone familiar with the unnamed (?) climb to the right of Classic Corner in the Atlantis area? It is also a dihedral climb with a good-looking crack & looks a bit steeper than Classic Corner. It is formed by the same large block that juts out to form the right side of CC.

Has it been named since Vogel's last book? Does anyone know its rating? -wingerhp

By Randy
Jan 20, 2004

The route shown in the photo is NOT Classic Corner. The corner to the right (right facing) IS Classic Corner.The route shown is appropriately named: False Classic Corner 5.6.

By Mike Morley
Administrator
From: Oakland, CA
May 3, 2004

Better than The Case of the Missing Nolina, but pretty short nonetheless (about 30').

By Blitzo
Dec 8, 2006

Good route, too bad it's not 100' longer.