Approach: walk up the wash below the Lost Horse Wall. Your landmark for finding this route is the traverse down and left along a horizontal from the top of P2 into P3; look for this about halfway down the ledge that defines the right side of the wall. At the left edge of this traverse, there is an obvious, left-facing dihedral. Scramble up boulders to reach the approach pitch.
Photo opportunity: as the leader gets into the dihedral at the start of P3, they end up parallel with and 15 feet left of the belay stance. It's pretty easy for them to lean back and smile for the camera.
Short leader advantage: the dihedral in P3 is slightly less awkward for a shorter climber.
P1: 5.6-: Start from boulders roughly below where the crack starts from the ledge. Work up and left across easy terrain to gain the ledge, then traverse right to the base of the crack. Straightforward gear anchor.
P2: 5.8: Work straight up the obvious crack system. You may find yourself using both cracks towards the bottom, but before long you'll be entirely in the left crack. You can't really miss the three-bolt anchor at the top of this pitch.
P3: 5.8: Take the obvious, 15-foot traverse down and left into the base of the dihedral. Enjoy the fabulous fingers and plentiful protection throughout the dihedral, continue up either crack above until the angle of the wall tapers off. You'll end up with a gear anchor a short distance from the top of the wall.
P4: 5.8-: You can probably choose any of several options to exit this climb. I opted for a short, obvious, somewhat-right-facing crack above a low-angle slab. As you exit, you'll want to move right to avoid the Pancake Prickly Pear growing in the top of the crack. Gear anchor beneath a blade of rock about 15 feet from the edge of the cliff.
Protection
Standard rack. This climb protects beautifully. If you choose the right of two cracks above the dihedral on P3, there will be a runout towards the top of the pitch when the crack runs out.
Never done this in three pitches, usually go right for the bolts. Also, gotta choose, screw yourself or screw the second. Traversing down quite aways and then over, rope drag or can the second handle it?
I'm going to assume you've been reading the newsgroup rec.climbing. You've been bitten by the biggest troll there, Jeff Batten. Dappled Mare is still there, no worries. It's best to always ignore posting concerning bolting of Double Cross as well.
On the traverse pitch, don't place any pro until you start back up the crack and get about level with the belay, (or farther if nerves allow) Use a long sling on the first couple of pieces and the drag won't be bad.
I would like to second the advice about climbing high in the crack after the traverse. I've climb the route numerous times. I climb quite high, place pro with two slings to make sure there's no drag.
We actually moved the belay to the bottom of the crack-not advised. You end up in an uncomfortable postition with a so-so belay. The crack flares in the back and makes good cam placement tough. Next time I'll have to try the advice above.
Found nuts and hexes more useful than cams on this excellent climb. Put in one cam about halfway down the traverse (with a long draw) and the next piece almost as high as the belay in the dihedral (with a sling). 3 bomber hexes later setup a belay at the top of the dihedral at an OK stance (where you can go left or straight up). Had no problem with drag and left a nice longish pitch to finish. We kept waiting for a 5.8 move but we did not think we ever did one.
By Dr. Evil From: Boulder, CO Apr 18, 2006 rating: 5.7
This route can easily be climbed in two pitches with a 60-meter rope.
To avoid rope drag, I chose to set the first belay after the traverse. Done this way the first pitch is about 55m. There is a small stance that is reasonably comfortable for one person at the end of the traverse. Using this belay position means that the second has to downclimb to the anchor, so it is a probably a good idea to protect the traverse well. The crack eats gear, so this is easy to do.
The second pitch then goes up the left-arching crack, then up the face and cracks to the top of the wall. The second pitch is about 50 m.
By Bill Lawry From: New Mexico Apr 25, 2007 rating: 5.8-
At the start of P3, I put in two spread out pieces during the downward traverse with single length slings. When starting up but still below the belay, I put in another piece with a double length sling. Rope drag was not an issue even though I led to the end of the 60 meter rope, combining P3 and P4. Unless you only have maybe sport quickdraws or are short-clipping the pro, I'm thinking that protecting the traverse doesn't mean a lot of rope drag later (your mileage may vary).
Did this in two pitches with my kids, but it would have been better as follows.
Pitch 1 - go up to the bolts, start left of the yucca just off the big boulder, with long runners on pro there is not much rope drag, maybe 160 foot pitch.
Pitch 2 - do the downward traverse, climb the left leaning crack and find the most comfortable stance you can above that section. This keeps decent visual/verbal communication with the follower(s) in case they have trouble. Not a great stance but you won't be there that long. Roughly 80 feet total and puts you left and not far above the bolted stance. Again that is helpful if it is windy and you want to communicate with the second, etc..
Pitch 3 - climb pretty easy and fun rock up to nice stance below some chickenheads. Walk off right (east) past a yucca and pick your way down through the boulders. 100 feet
By Dave Daly From: Temecula, CA Feb 23, 2009 rating: 5.8
Done this in 2 pitches with 60m rope (last remaining bit is 4th/low 5th). As for the traverse, protect the second midway then place a piece (with long runner) about the same height as the belay as you head up the left facing corner. Hardly got any rope drag and my second felt well protected. I felt the second pitch was just as fun as the first. Folks who'd rather go 'Roan's Way' (did it already) don't know what they are missing! Good stuff!
By Chris Owen Administrator From: La Crescenta, CA Sep 26, 2009 rating: 5.8
The traverse at the start of P2 in particular is very good - along with the crack above, not sure why this wouldn't be classic, but then again I like traverses.
Fantastic climb! There are great nut placements on all pitches. I've now done it with both finishes, and I agree with Dave Daly that the standard finish is more fun(although Roan's Way was fun too). That diagonal crack/dihedral after the traverse is just so sweet! I waited until I was even with the belay to place my first piece, which I slung with a double length sling and Rope drag was not an issue.
The descent is an easy scramble off to climber's right.
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