Located on the upper Rock Garden Valley Wall, this route lies near the right end of the wall. Look for a distinctive zig-zag crack system...this is the route.
An enjoyable route that takes gear well, this is a fun route to do when in the area. This was the first route climbed on the wall and would make a good first route for those who have never been to this area before.
Protection
Gear to 3".Anchors on top (3/8"). Depending on how much pro is placed you may want to take some slings to cut down on rope drag.
We climbed this last week and on second my hands were frozen by the time I reached the top. Great little route but was it ever cold. I believe this route faces north so be advised if you're climbing in February.
K, this is about the easiest 5.7 in the park. Easily protectable but few hand jams until you get to the top. There are many good stances where the crack jogs to the left.
I'm into having fun and this climb is all that. Great feet. Not that hard for 5.7 so a good climb to lead.
By Scott Edlin From: boulder, co Apr 12, 2006 rating: 5.7
this route is pure fun! it's pretty easy for a 5.7, gobbles up all kinds of pro, great jamming, excellent rock quality, and abundant face holds make for very comfortable stances.
Great crack, excellent movement, and easy for a classic 7 (not the easiest in the park, though). However, I'll say that for folks new to crack, and used to vertical gym climbing, negotiating the diagonal section can be a non-intuitive combination of hand-jamming, and finding (good) feet below the crack. For my second it was more intuitive to put feet in the crack and stand up, leaving her with little to hold on to for hands above. Much easier, of course, to keep hands in the crack as much as possible and seek the good-to-bomber feet beneath and to the left. A really enjoyable climb for me, as it provided such good jams/holds and interesting 2-dimensional movement (read: not just up-down). A great way to end the day...
By Colin Parker From: Pasadena, CA May 22, 2009 rating: 5.7
Like the others say, It's a great 5.7, and solid for the grade. Not my personal favorite, but it makes you think since its diagonal. Also try the Split Personality variant!
Could not disagree more that this is the "easiest 5.7 in the park". IMO, there are a number of 5.7's that are significantly less difficult than this route. It's a fun 5.7 route that protects well. Fun moves throughout. While it wouldn't be a route that I would suggest for a newbie, I'd recommend for a competent 5.7+ (JTree) climber. Enjoy!
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