Any route or boulder problem that starts out of or near an occupied campsite may not be done without first obtaining the campsite occupant's permission.
Kris Solem stepping up to the bolt. Photo buy Guy ...
Description
A short way up the gully to the left of the Direct South Face (5.9) is a diagonal crack that runs across most of this face. Climb up some rather poor rock to attain this crack, (don't let this disuade you the rest of the route is stellar!). Follow the crack with a couple of difficult moves near the top, one protected by a bolt. Belay where the route intersects Racing The Sun (AKA Lucky Charms. Continue on that route to the top.
I followed this route so I feel my rating can be cooly objective. 5.10B, it isn't. I'd say 5.10C/D. I did a layback on the crux. Also, if I remember correctly, getting the few feet up to the crux was interesting too. The leader will have a bolt to protect the crux move.
It's significantly easier if you do a face move a little to the left rather than forcing your way up the lieback. May be height dependent that way though.
By Tony B From: Boulder, CO Jan 9, 2005 rating: 5.10b
I'm going to agree with the 10b rating, which I believe after doing it to the left, on-sight. It seemed to 'read' as the easiest and most logical sequeunce. Sans bolt, I might have pro'd the crack and gone straight up, which looked harder, and a shave runout.The unique thing about this climb is how relatively easy and well protected all of the rest of the climb is. Given the short crux and the well protected nature of it and the rest of the climb, this might be a great 'first 10b' for some leaders.
I would agree that the crux protects well. My only real concern was that I was clipping a 1/4" bolt for the crux moves. You do have good gear about 8' below the bolt though.
Stating that this route is "clean & well protected" is a bit of a stretch. But, it is some good climbing. Lower portion is very grainy and takes poor pro making it not worth the trouble. Midway as the crack cleans up and starts to head left in the varnished bowl you can cam a pod with a #2 camalot or use some medium sized nuts for some mystery flakes or horizontals.
Before reaching the bolt (old SMC with 1/4" button) you can cam another grungy pod in the crack with a #3 camalot or .75 cam in a horizontal below the bolt to protect the move. (I opted for the horizontal). A few face moves later, bolt clipped you'll be on your way - that #3 cam you saved is a nice fit in the flare just above the bolt. The routes angle eases quite a bit from here and it's easy climbing to the top.
Bring some long slings for some chicken-heads for an anchor.
Enjoy the sun and lack of crowds!
~Susan
By Kris Solem From: Monrovia, CA Jan 6, 2009 rating: 5.10b
As of Jan 6, 2009 the bolt is new. Ryan Mattock and I went up there and replaced it with a nice 3/8" 5 piece rawl. Ryan did the work. I was the driver...
The old bolt came out with no resistance. I attached a pic of it to this page for the heck of it...
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Jan 6, 2009
Nice work, Ryan and Kris. Thanks for your efforts.
Ksolem, rebolting was a "mission accomplished" today. The bolt was quite easy to remove. today we gave that route a complete make over. I'm going to put the old bolt in a sandwich bag with today's date and give it to Largo the next time I see him at malibu. anyway, bolt replaced 01/06/09.
I think this is a 5.10d. Maybe I don't have the reach to make it a 10b or maybe I didn't go the right way. But I spent a good bit of time staring up there at that bolt, trying a move, backing off, trying something else, and then just going. 5.10d is my vote.
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