Any route or boulder problem that starts out of or near an occupied campsite may not be done without first obtaining the campsite occupant's permission.
Climb the discontinuous crack system about 10' right of The Flue. Start up a few face moves to a right-slanting crack, then up a vertical flare. Climb through the crux bulge via the flare and face holds, then up easier terrain through discontinuous shallow cracks to finish at the bolt anchor atop The Flue.
Protection
Small to 2". Hybrid/offset cams may be helpful in places. Bolted rap anchor at the top.
The crux comes early on this one, and while the gear is pretty good there, the stances are pumpy. The piece that will protect the final moves of the crux is in a flare and is hard to see from the balancy stance you can reach it from. Above the gear is sparse but adequate. Fun climbing though, and a worthy TR if you're on The Flue. I felt it was stout for 10b though, and the R rating seemed appropriate.
RSS Feed
