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The Old Woman - West Face
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Dogleg 

5.8

   

FA: unknown
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.8+ [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 110 feet
Views: 1,179 page views

Submitted By: Orphaned on Jun 20, 2002


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Midway up Dogleg


Description 

Very nice! Climb up an initial face section to gain the crack. The crack was off-fingers for me and a bit tricky, but patience will prevail. Good protection. Follow the vertical crack as it "doglegs" up and right to the top.


Protection 

Standard rack, nuts and cams.



Add Photo Photos of Dogleg
Photo by Chris Parks.

Photo by Chris Parks.

The Old Woman - West Face

BETA PHOTO: The Old Woman - West Face

Loving the hand jams

Loving the hand jams

Dogleg, Joshua Tree.

Dogleg, Joshua Tree.


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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 24, 2008
By Tony Bubb
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 6, 2003
rating: 5.9-

The book suggests a rack to 2".

I suggest a rack to 3.5" You can pro it quite well with a double set of Camalots to #3 plus a 3.5. and the standard small tricams + set of nuts.

To avoid the insecure/hard start, step into the climb from a stance off to the right.

By Woody Stark
Apr 9, 2003

I and others are responsible for the rating problem on this route. In the sixties ratings were a good deal more conservative than today. It should be a solid nine and sustained.

By David Evans
Apr 11, 2003

I agree with Woody. Dogleg is 5.9. I used to solo it on a regular basis, would never solo it now.

By Anonymous Coward
Oct 4, 2004

As a solid 5.10 crack climber, I worked pretty hard on this route. My ego liked reading the comments above calling this route a possible 5.9. The start was pretty hard and while there are great stances throughout the climb, it is pretty sustained. With that said, leaving it as 5.8 or 5.8+ is probably appropriate as it isn't nearly as hard as Damper. But, no matter the rating, it is still a very fun climb.

A number 3 camalot is very nice to have as the crack doglegs to the right.

Will

By Woody Stark
Feb 5, 2005

Led it again today. I still think it's a solid nine, as did my partner.

By bert Vergara
Jun 17, 2005
rating: 5.9-

Great Route, Definitely an 5.8 or better. The crack spits you out about 3/4 up the route in one short section. It's commiting, but the moves are there if your head is.

By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta, CA
Oct 13, 2006

Bit of a grunt this one. I wouldn't argue with 5.9.

By Jay Knower
Administrator
Mar 27, 2007
rating: 5.8+

An excellent route. I thought the start move seemed very hard, but the rest of the climb was sinker hands for me. I have no idea what the start should be rated, but all but the first five feet felt about 5.8.

By Kayte Knower
Mar 27, 2007

Really sustained, engaging jamming. I got punished on the start. I hope I was doing it wrong.

By Darren D.
Apr 12, 2007
rating: 5.9

Apparently you can traverse in right to make the start easier. This is a nice crack and makes a good "approach" for Geronimo on the other side of the formation.

By ben kenobi
From: Portland, OR & Olympia, WA
Dec 22, 2007

I'd agree with most of the above statements. The route seemed to want to spit me out constantly. I'd suggest a solid 5.8+ rating, and if 5.8 is your limit, start on double cross and then climb this one.

By Will S
Dec 26, 2007
rating: 5.8+

The route has been upgraded to 5.9 in the new Vogel JTree West guide.

By Jon Hanlon
From: SLO
Dec 31, 2007
rating: 5.9

Felt 5.9 to me...

By susan peplow
From: Phx J-Tree
Oct 5, 2008
rating: 5.8

This route takes a nice assortment of gear for the budding leader. Nothing too small or large needed for the climb itself. As you creep up the arch towards the top the rock quality drops a bit but the face moves are pretty good. Consider not burning your large piece as it could be used the the anchor.

Getting on the route could be considered the crux. Protect with 1" cam in small pod and just lob into it.

Minimum 2.5" cams & nuts for the belay. Rap the formation directly behind this route on the North side.

edit: This route still sports a fixed pin mid-way that seems bomber but easily backed up.

By bsavall
Nov 24, 2008
rating: 5.8+

Lot's of discussion about the rating of this route! I was fortunate enough to lead both Touch and Go (5.9) and Dogleg (5.8+) on the same day, in that order. For me, Dogleg seemed a half grade easier than TNG, but that could be the mix of techniques on TNG. Could be there were more opportunities to rest on Dogleg. I felt comfortable protecting the first move with a 0.4 BD. but other options exist.