Any route or boulder problem that starts out of or near an occupied campsite may not be done without first obtaining the campsite occupant's permission.
BETA PHOTO: The Old Woman - West Face
Description
This route lies to the right of Dogleg Begin below the left side of a large downpointing "Fang" flake/cave feature (same start as The Fang).
Up the left side of the Fang flake (use 1st bolt on The Fang), then continue up face climbing past 3 more bolts and a horizontal crack to finish at the belay for Dogleg.
This climb begins at the same location as the Fang and stays on the left side of the "fang" to the first of four bolts before meandering right. The rock quality improves after the first two bolts and the crux, which is solid at 11d, is on good rock. One or maybe two out of five stars.
Murf, perhaps you are thinking of the route Bridwell - Sustad which is further right and 11a?
Is this mismarked in the photo? The marked route was originally a 10b route that traversed off left (Tobin? Mike Wah?). Then the 11b finish was a tr section. Or, has it been bolted up and renamed?
DE, the 1947 route number is the (new) route number (for The Cavity) in Joshua Tree West...will be out in March (just sent back the proofs). Sorry about the confusion.
The Old Woman - West Face
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