Orphan 

I and quite a few others I've climbed with over the years have felt this route should be rated 10a. Anyway you cut it, it's a great route.

The actual first ascent (free) of this route was no later than 1954, and likely earlier.

I found 4" pieces were helpful in the upper "grunt" section of the chimney. Is every route of this face of the Old Woman a test piece? Prepare for a challenging climb in the grade.

Now that it has been a few days, and my wounds have healed, I can say that This route was in fact enjoyable. The lower and middle section was both surprising and challenging. The upper section... well I can suggest wearing long pants. A true test of skill and sanity!

I'm not sure why I avoided this route for so many years... it is an awesome climb!

The bottom 40-50 feet of stemming is superb with great pro. And the top 30 feet is relatively straightforward - at least for a wide crack :)

Good pro (#4 Camalot) protects the "crux" entry move into the wide section. Face right (left side in) and a little squirming gets your foot on the big fat edge. Once on this edge, face left (right side in) and straightforward shallow stemming and a little wide crack action gets you to the top. A second #4 or #3 Camalot comes in handy higher up, as the middle section is too wide for reasonable protection.

Perfect route if it wasn't for the finish. I hate that wide stuff.

this is a great route and .9 is right on for the grade. the wide section at the top is no big deal- bomber gear and straightfoward movement easily dispatch it.

The topo for this pitch in the Bartlett guide shows the .9 crux in the fingers section. I found the crux to be entry into the wide section. Entire route protects well with gear to 4". 5.9 is fair.

This route will keep you warm on those windy J-Tree days. I was sweating when I finished it. Physical, but never really difficult.