Any route or boulder problem that starts out of or near an occupied campsite may not be done without first obtaining the campsite occupant's permission.
Climber seconding the Band Saw (at the third bolt)
Description
Located on the west side of The Old Woman, about 25' right of Double Cross (5.7+) and 10' right of The Sexy Grandma (5.9) is this climb worth checking out.
Start off a block and make funky, unprotected 5.10 moves to a high first bolt (don't fall). You'll be glad to clip this, as there are some thin moves above the bolt climbing up to a small roof (pro possible here). After the roof pass a horizontal crack and then continue up well protected face past two more bolts. A small cam will fit in a horizontal after the last bolt and protect the finishing moves to a ledge. Scramble left to rap anchors atop Double Cross, or alternately it's possible to traverse left in a horizontal and reach the Sexy Grandma anchors.
A fun route that would be a lot more popular if it had some decent pro at the start. This is one climb you probably won't be waiting in line for and a good climb to do when on this side of the rock.
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Oct 26, 2004
The bolts have been replaced with modern hardware. A fall, however, before clipping the first bolt would likely result in a visit to the hospital. There is currently a bolt hole right off the deck that *might* offer some protection using a removable bolt. The moves in reaching the first bolt are definitely solid 5.10.
The Old Woman - West Face
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