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Centurion
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British PG13
Avg: 3.4 from 8
votes
| Type: | Trad, 45 ft (14 m) |
| GPS: | 33.94885, -116.0733 |
| FA: | Tony Yaniro and Vaino Kodas, 1982 |
| Page Views: | 3,142 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Russ Walling on Feb 19, 2008 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
When someone says "striking line" this route could be the definition. A summit block split by an ever widening crack with sky on both sides.
The business starts pretty early as the initial moves to get above the roof are the crux. Once you are established in the crack there is some nice OW to the summit, thankfully with a secure leg and knee in most of the way.
Location
This route is the obvious crack that splits the "Centurion" block on the Diamond Clump.
If you are approaching the very popular routes on Star Wars Rock, the Diamond Clump will be visible from the road about 400 yards south, and Centurion is the most obvious line on the SW face.
Scramble up to the base, and maybe take your belayer with you, though you can belay from the base of the slabby approach to the business section.
Protection
Under the roof will take something in the 2.5" range to protect the opening moves to get over to and under the wide section.
Start by plugging a 4" cam under the roof and continue on up through the sizes as you go, all the way to #6 Wild Country cams and beyond if you need more.
There are a few bolts spread around on the summit for an anchor and rappel.
- Here is a Quicktime Movie of the action: WideFetish.com movie
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