AJ passing the horizontals on Frankenwood (5.9), J...
Description
This long and varied route, first climbed by a JT local and some visiting Norwegians, starts with a bouldery move onto a ledge and then moves up a right-facing corner with a thin crack that gradually widens as the corner gets steeper. Higher, pass a section with some gritty horizontals (stay left) and continue above in a hand-size crack that turns into an offset fist crack/ow at the top - despite the sound of it good jams can be had in the back and footholds are plentiful making it less of a thrutch than it may seem - the crack narrows at the very top to hands and conludes with a pull onto the level top with a nice view of the desert below. Gear belay and descend by walking off or making a single rope rap (100') off chain anchors about 40' to the right (above Frankenwood).
This is, for the grade, one of the better crack routes in the area with it's varied moves, good rock and length factored in. Don't forget at least one large cam (4") for the top. Three stars out of five.
Nice route, and the crux is definitely the wide section at the very top. Rap off from anchors (100 feet) to the right (above Frankenwood).
By Andy Laakmann Site Landlord From: Jackson Hole, WY Apr 9, 2007 rating: 5.9
Fun, varied crack. Thin at the bottom, not thin at the top. One or two bigger cams is useful at the top. Long slings useful. Rap anchors are available about 40 feet climbers-right.
I did this climb using BD #2 as my biggest gear. You can protect the wide crack section up top using BD C3's on the thin crack on the left of the wide crack.
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