Ocean Of Night (aka Out To Grunge) 

I backed off this route after placing my second cam in the flake. As I tugged on it loose grains were raining down from inside the flake. I didn't trust the placement so I backed off and set up a TR. Fun climb on TR.

I've only done this one on TR, and the anchor can be a bit zooish. From the top, I set some bigger cams way back in the middle of the formation, something like BD 2-4 equalized with a couple cordalettes. You could probably set an anchor on the edge of the lip using two or more pieces in the #1 camalot size, but a directional would be nessecary to prevent a TR'd climber from swinging into blocks on the climber's left. Overall, a good and varied route, sustained despite the ledge in the middle. 5.10a/b jam or lieback down low and 5.10bish face climbing above. On lead, don't blow the upper face moves near the bolt as you'd probably deck on the ledge. I'd enjoy leading it next time around.

This is a really fun route, we put an anchor at the top just under the lip... no directional needed as you don't swing very hard toward the rocks on the left.

My buddy ripped a # 4 out of the previously mentioned grainy rock while hanging after he botched the sequence at the bottom - yikes! If your leading I found it better to climb into the stance above the lieback (grainy)portion where you have many gear options available. Interesting climbing past the bolt puts you on top. The bolt above the ledge is pretty darn high I found. I had to climb up a ways to get it clipped - kinda spooky when your last piece is way below the ledge some 20'down. Once past the bolt climbing eases at very the top. Very exciting lead. Love great climbs like these that get NO stars in the book!