This excellent route is located on your right (south) as you walk into the Cove from the parking area. It takes a fairly direct line about 25 feet right of the large right-facing dihedral on the upper portion of the wall (Boulder Dash, 5.9*).
The climb name is "short" for big dynamo or "mo", the technique used by the first ascent party to solve the crux move down low. Though this move is now commonly done statically, shorter people often "pop" for the huge hand hold.
Great climbing from bottom to top on excellent rock.
Protection
If you chose to lead this route (you have to do the crux without pro); bring cams 1 to 2 inches for the two horizontals. Though given an "R" rating, it probably is best given an R/X rating as any fall at the crux would be very bad and if you landed wrong....
Most people top-rope this climb (2 bolt anchor on top). The route is rarely lead, but often free soloed.
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Jan 22, 2003
"...shorter people often "pop" for the huge hand hold" - that is absolutely right (I'm 5'6"). However, the fun doesn't stop there. The climbing eases up for a bit, but there are still a few powerful moves just below the top - pace yourself!
By Chris Miller Administrator Nov 30, 2004 rating: 5.11a R
A long-established Josh classic with a distinct crux down low and steep, continuous moves at the top. Climbers with little endurance may find the moves at the top to be another crux if pumped. This route is conducive to doing laps and could be considered the roped equivalent of Gunsmoke.
I climbed Big Moe today and a guy told me about a "proud line" that went straight up from the horizontal crack rather than traversing to the left. Any info? It felt like an 11d or 12a move and definately reach dependant.
There were two of the three hangers removed recently on Big Moe.........the new one remained and is solid as can be........as of today, one more anchor is back and solid so it is as it should be.....No more are thre three.Two will have to do (Later on I may go back and work on a third. I wish exisiting bolts liked, loved or hated would be left as they are......It is not up to us in my opinion to decide if it was right or wrong to put it there as long as it is placed properly.....AS I posted on Joshuatree.com...I do not condone or promote adding bolts/anchors as "easy raps" to avoid downclimbing etc... If you don't like the way to get off, please don't add your own and think you are doing a great deed.......you're not!
Woody: I liked the idea, but it (and other possibilites) present legal challenges:
Small fire on chest --- violates out-of-bounds campfire rule.
Staked over ant hill ---violates prihibition on feeding the animals.
Hanging them by feet off an overhanging face -- violates leaving unattended gear rule.
Hmmmmmm.
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator From: Escondido, Ca Jan 28, 2006 rating: 5.11a
The direct line from the horizontal goes, just as mentioned at about 12a. It involved camming one's foot into said horizontal which could cause ankle damage if one fell at the wrong moment. I witnessed Mike Verdugo walk this line 10 or 12 years ago. We called it "Bigger Moe."
Fun, reachy or dynamic crux and creepy pump up high. If it's the roped equivalent to gunsmoke, maybe I just don't have it wired yet. Seemed a bit harder than V2. Good stuff, 3 of 5 stars for a toprope. Would be a quite proud lead.
This really should only get a R rating for the lead not an X. Sure the crux comes before the first gear, but its not like it is so high that you are going to die if you pitch, get hurt sure, or with the way things have been being done lately, just bring pads for the start. A fall from the top would be BIG for the wall that you are on, but again you are not likely to do any real damage.
By Gregg Olson From: ca Oct 4, 2008 rating: 5.11a/b X
This is in my top ten list. Bolts on top for T.R. Its a great training route with super fun moves. I used to go straight over the upper bulge avoiding the flakes to the left with a foot lock under the bulge and a reach to a small edge ( 12 ish ). As far as leading this thing goes... I used to have this climb completely wired and had a bit of a love affair with r rated routes and I think I would rather solo it then lead it !! In Reference to someones comment above... "just bring crash pads ", " you are not likely to do any real damage", " an R rating" ??? Are you kidding me ??? I could not even imagine dragging a rope and a few cams with me up to the bulge unprotected !! A fall from the low crux might not kill you, but would bounce you off the uneven ledge and into the ground from bone breaking height, a fall from the moves above the crux ( there's still some moves here, and remember your not on a top rope ) certainly would. Jerry Moffett's first lead, and any lead ever of this climb, was and is done in classic bold English gritstone style and is a life threatening undertaking.
First off, I did lead this route, I tried it in 1993 on TR and could not do it at all. In 2000 I rapped the line to see what gear I needed, pulled the rope and lead it and yes I think it is a great route. Second as far as the R versus X rating is concerned, lets remember that X means that a route is life threatning in the event of a fall, broken bones does not cut it.
By Darin Limvere Administrator Dec 17, 2008 rating: 5.11a R
Since you can technically kill yourself from a fall that is anything more than three feet, our entire life could be considered "X." On that basis, sure, I'd call it "R" most likely. It's gotten R/X ratings, R ratings, ect. It's all personal opinion, climb it on whatever R or X you want to. Maybe NC-17? Good work on the lead Lee.
Echo Cove - South Side
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