The original name for the route was "Black Tide", but apparently there was some controversy surrounding the "completion" of the first ascent and Long's party (and name) won out. Whenever I go back to climb this route, it seems like the initial face section feels thinner and thinner. Take care when climbing up to the first bolt. After that, it's fun edge and friction climbing up the dike feature along the righthand margin of the big unbroken Echo Rock face. Belay from a pair of bolts, then walk off or rappel off bolts atop Forbidden Paradise.
Protection
Protection is provided by 4 bolts (3/8"), but this is not a sport route. Bolted anchor (3/8").
Wonderful slab climb with four very well-placed bolts. The walk-off is a bit long. I prefer a single-rope rap from the top of Stick To What to climber's right, across the slab and down a little.
By 5.10b4me From: Alhambra, California Apr 2, 2003
This is one of the best 5.7's around. First lead it in 1984. I agree that the crux seems more greasy now than it did in the past. the runout sections are not that bad.
While "Black Tide" may be more elegant name, the original name (by the FA party) was Stichter Quits. Black Tide was a "working" name for the route by the climbers who placed the protection bolts on it. Perhaps Largo and company's snagging the route from Ken Stichter and John Wolfe was in bad form, but it was still the first ascent.
It is really no different that someone redpointing a project someone else is working on. And what would be the reference for all the other "Quits" routes (Martin Quits, Sphincter Quits, etc)?
This route has definitely gotten harder over the years. So many people have paddled up (and floundered upon) the crux that the rock has become quite polished. 5.8 may be fair. The new guide rates it 5.7/8.
Very nice route. I definately disagree with the previous comments. From what I've seen of Joshua Tree tradition, this climb is definately a 5.6-5.7, given that the low moves and moves off the bolts are well protected.
Also, getting to the second bolt is definately a job for someone tall. I was a little surprised by the height off the flake.
I too believe this route is harder than 5.7. I always feel bad when I get a beginner climber on it, telling them it is 5.7 and they get spanked. I don't think I'd call it 5.9 yet but it's heading in that direction with how polished it's getting on the start. The dike move midway up the climb is a bit sporty too!
Just climbed it last weekend. Great climb but if your used to "sport climbs" it is a little bit runout. We rapped off of the anchors with a 60 meter but the rope comes just about 6-8ft shy of the bottom. We rapped down to the beginning of the dike where there are big footholds and down climbed the last few feet (fairly easy). The walkoff is very straight forward, continue up the dike to easy ground and head left towards double dip, follow the east side slab down and to the right. Follow a large flake which turns into a crack (don't follow the crack all the way, it disappears over a ledge!) and head right towards the bottom) I feel this is a 5.7 face climb but the runout may make it feel 5.8 for some people!
By Bill Olszewski From: Colorado Springs, CO Mar 10, 2007 rating: 5.7
Maybe not a good climb for anyone leading max 5.7, but standard JT traditional slab. Is there really such a thing as a 5.7 crux? The "crux," while perhaps a bit greasy, is well protected. Hey, it's a sunshine climb, don't climb it when it's too hot. ;-) Lot's of fun but no worse than 5.7- by Josh standards IMO. In case anyone who hasn't yet climbed this route is confused by the descent beta, the rap anchor everyone is talking about is NOT the anchor for Black Tide. That would require two 60's. Anyway, I prefer to stick with the north walk-off.
By Guy Humphrey From: Fort Collins CO Mar 28, 2007
It is possible to rap this line with a single 70M rope. The ends barely touch the ground.
We did it on a Saturday when nobody was at Echo Rock. A really fun route. It might be a bit runout, but the bolts are well placed to protect the crux moves.
By Brian Hench From: Anaheim, CA May 12, 2008 rating: 5.8- PG13
I did this route for the first time and loved it. The walk off is dead easy and it took fewer than five minutes. It's faster than rappelling.
It's true that the bolts protect all the hardest moves.
i climbed it few times, and the last time i noticed that the 4th bolt was chopped. but that chopped bolt is on the easy terrain after the first 3 bolts so maybe someone thought it wasnt needed. i think it should have stayed since it means youre doing a 50ft runnout at the top.
By Dave Daly From: Temecula, CA Dec 8, 2008 rating: 5.8
Gotta agree with a few folks here, did this route 15 years ago and then again this past weekend. The route is definitely slicked up (mainly at bolts #1 and #3). Feels more like 5.8 these days.