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Music Box 

5.8

   

FA: ??
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9- [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 70 feet
Views: 479 page views

Submitted By: Andy on Apr 23, 2005


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The route


Description 

Crack left of Bela Lugosi. Easy start to some wide and flaring jams. Helpful features on the face to the left.

Felt a bit strenuous for a few moves.


Protection 

Medium to large cams, gear and/or long sling for anchor



Photos of Music Box Slideshow Add Photo
Eric clipping near the bottom

Eric clipping near the bottom

Nicole being belayed by Geoff

Nicole being belayed by Geoff


Comments on Music Box Add Comment
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By Woody Stark
Oct 4, 2005
rating: 5.10a

The guide has this route at eight. Locker and I have it at 10a. It's an excellent route: good protection all the way and quite sustained.

By Locker
Oct 5, 2005

I have done this route before and remembered it from the past as being more difficult than 5.8. Today while climbing it I debated with Woody if 5.9+ might suit it better because 5.9+ can be almost anything from 5.9 to 5.10d out here... So ambiguous... But after taking a few good ones, I even decked one at the start, I thing I agree with the Woodman... Whatever you want to rate it, with all of the other climbs on the same formation, it is well worht the longer drive to do them... And don't forget to do "That Old Soft Shoe"...It could be that we were just pumped from doing other routes I suppose...maybe Woody, we could go do it fresh and see???...

By The Gray Tradster
Oct 5, 2005

"The hardest 5.8 in the park!"

There is a trick to it and it may be height or hand size dependent.I've always felt 5.8 was fair, but nobody else did.

By susan peplow
From: Phx J-Tree
Feb 23, 2007
rating: 5.8+

Difficult climbing for me down low. Borderline off-width.

By Ryan Kelly
From: the gym
Oct 28, 2007
rating: 5.8+

This route sucks ass. I'm willing to entertain the idea that I climbed it on a bad day, and the crack usually isn't as slick. I found slimy, flared "jams" for a good section of the bottom. A climb to miss for sure. Did I mention this climb sucks ass?

By Obi
From: San Diego, CA
Nov 5, 2007
rating: 5.8+

Lots and lots of BD #3's helps with this climb

By Ryan Kelly
From: the gym
May 5, 2008
rating: 5.8+

Was in the area so I decided to be fair and give it another shot. My opinion still stands, the slimy flared jams are terrible. This route is all yours Obi, I will never set hand in it again.