Mike Kidner on Room To Shroom. (C)2002 Mike Morle...
Description
A personal favorite. Perfect hands to fist crack. At the crack's high point, step up and right and move 20' across (mostly) unprotectable face to belay from Pinyon pine. A small stopper placement early in the traverse helps to protect both leader and follower.
Approach: From Barker Dam parking lot, follow trail to dam and continue north through wash. Bear northwest (left) past Escape Rock. The Room To Shroom formation will be on your right, but hidden until you pass it and look back. Scramble up rocks to get to base of route.
Descent: Single rope rappel to ground from Pinyon pine.
Protection
Bring pro to 3". A small stopper helps protect the final 20' traverse.
By Andrew Gram Administrator From: Denver, CO Nov 4, 2002 rating: 5.8
Nice climb - wish it was way longer. No harder than 8 if you keep your feet in the crack.
#2 WC Rock protects the traverse well.
By Chris Owen Administrator From: La Crescenta, CA Jan 5, 2003
For purity of line and motion, few crack climbs of this grade at Joshua Tree can compare to "Room to Shroom".
Easier than it looks, the hallmark of any true classic. This climb turns out to be quite straightforward, if you can hand and foot jam, otherwise good luck.
Wouldn't be out of place on UK grit.
Thanks Dave (Evans) for giving us another top notch route.
Highest quality.
5.9 because of the intensive jamming, which is an advanced technique. Remember that this grade was placed before cams. Try leading it on hexentrics and wires for a slightly more sobering experience.
This was one of my first leads, and instead of exiting onto the face at the top of the crack I continued downward along the arching crack,in essence downclimbing the 10b, or whatever the route to the left is rated. I knew Josh ratings were stiff but it wasn't until I checked the guide book that I realized I had down upclimed Room to Shroom and then down climbed a different route. It was wild!
Great route on a steep but not overhanging wall. The angle of the crack put increased stress on my handjams. It's quite different when a crack angles for me since I cannot get my feet directly underneath me. It requires moves that I call Jtree funk. Good pro all the way. The exit at the top to the right is run out but easy and short. Just don't fall.
But not as hard as Touch and Go
By Chris Miller Administrator Dec 12, 2003 rating: 5.9
Nice clean jams...for about 30'. Despite the good rock and all this climb suffers from too much hype IMO. Two stars out of five.
The crack is beautiful while it lasts, but this route is way too short to get all the praise it deserves. We spent close to an hour hiking around to find it, climbed it in about 20 minutes, and walked another half hour trying to find another good climb in the area.
A bit hard to find, short, & overrated are the downsides; clean smooth jams, excellent gear, fun climbing, & a rap-off are the positives. Seems way overrated if you have experience jamming cracks. A new leader, or one near their limit, might use a 3.5" piece up high.
By Tyler Logan From: Running Springs Mar 15, 2008 rating: 5.8+
It's not too bad approaching this from the Don Juan Boulder area if you want to tick it after climbing on the Astro Domes. From the boulder, head towards Barker Dam until you are just past the southern flank of S. Astro Dome. Some boulder hopping and easy scrambling at that point brings you to a plateau, where you can scramble/walk down to Room to Shroom from above (it's easily seen).
Room To Shroom Area
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