Underhill Couloir 

FA:  Underhill, Clyde, Robinson, Farquhar, Dawson, Clark, Eichorn - August 1931 Type:  Trad, Alpine Consensus:  4th [details] Length:  2000 feet, Grade II Season:  Spring to Fall - Spring is best Views: 140 page views Submitted By: Chris Owen on Feb 1, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: Underhill Couloir Route

Description 

AKA Undertaker Couloir.

Class 4 minus the summit monolith (5.9). Route of peak's first ascent.

Approach via the Palisade Glacier. Cross the bergschrund (gets bigger as the season progresses). Climb the righthand couloir, passing a chockstone on the right - continue up a chimney to the notch between North Palisade and Thunderbolt Peak. There are two ways from here; either traverse ledges on the south side then up a gully to the summit ridge. Or (better) climb directly up the ridge from the notch to the summit monolith.

Better when there's snow in the couloir - the couloir is horribly loose when free of snow.

Descend the route -- (rap and downclimb-- there are fixed pins along the right-side of the gully at each rap station).

Location 

North facing couloir between North Palisade and Thunderbolt Peak.

Protection 

Solo class 4 - ice-axe and possibly crampons. Summit monolith (5.9) may require a length of rope.