This stunning peak overlooks the south fork of the Bishop Creek drainage. The beautiful East Buttress will immediately catch a climber's eye, and a 2nd-class route up the South-East slope provides access for non-climbers as well as an easy descent route. The routes on this peak can easily be done car-to-car in a day.
Getting There
Start at the South Lake trailhead and hike toward Bishop Pass. Follow the trail to Bishop Lake (~ 3.5 mi), then look for use trails up the South-East slope for the 2nd class route. To access the East Buttress, follow the trail to the inlet of Long Lake, cross the creek to the north, follow the north drainage to Margaret Lake, then scramble across talus to the base of the route.
8-9 pitches in most guidebooks, this route can be done fairly easily in 7 pitches with a 60m rope. Here's how the pitches break down to do it in 7 pitches.Approach the base of the climb, and scramble up and left on the 4th-class slab to a good ledge below an obvious corner system with a thin-hands crack on the right wall. Rope up there.P1: 190' (5.8) Climb the open book with the thin-hands crack to a ledge, then up another open book with a fist ...[more]
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