Toxic Waste Wall

It seems like the two right-most routes and also that route on the left with the red webbing needs permenant anchors placed above them. The bolts seem just fine, but the anchors on top are pretty shady or non existant. I know I'd appreciate if someone took the time and effort to do that. If I had the gear I'd do it myself, but I'd need someone to teach me how first... anyone?? :-D

The red tat is on the route Toxic Socks. I made a comment about it when I posted that route to the database last February. That should be swapped out with tan or some neutral color webbing to reduce the visual impact from the road.

From my recollection, all the routes to the right worth climbing have reasonable fixed anchors (a couple of routes share the same anchor).

My friend and I were climbing at Toxic Waste over the weekend and we replaced the old red and black webbing above Toxic Socks with a new black piece of webbing. We didn't have any tan sandstone colored webbing to match the rock, but we figured that it was pretty neutral (sandstone rock there has black marks) and having a new anchor was most important.

"High-quality" and "sport climbing" are misleading. At this stage, most of the lead bolts demonstrate significant corrosion. Nearly all of the top-anchors are of poor quality. Even more importantly, there seems to be no relationship between bolt placements and crux moves or bolt placements and good clipping stances.

The crag feels like it was developed by 5.12/5.13 climbers for whom the bolted protection was merely incidental. Most routes will be hair-raising for anyone who isn't super solid at the grade.

The top-anchors are inexplicable.

Terrifying is probably a stretch but I'm sure the place is in need of the renevation after all these years. The anchors were always a bit strange, as this was old school first generation sport climbing. Holds also tend to break, so it is possible the the bolts aren't all in the right places anymore as well. This entire area could be retro'd in an afternoon for less than $100 total. Someone should probably take the time to do it. I would if I were still in the area.

I have climbed here lots, and never noticed anything much beyond a bunch of good climbs and fun adventures.

Steve Edwards, could you be a little more specific with your comments? You have said some things that I suspect may result in the area getting "fixed", which in the past has entailed moving bolts, cutting vegetation, relocation of anchors, addition of toprope anchors, and generally making the area toprope ready and safe for the children. Specifically, you said the area could be retro'd. Is this what you are advocating? I guess you have some say in it since you were there for lots of it, but at some point routes belong to everyone. I personally would not like to see Toxic Waste Wall emasculated and "improved." Replace bolts? - Yes, slight adjustment of bolt location due to rock breaking? - Usually. Anything beyond this, in my opinion, No. This sh1t is stealing the soul of climbing.

To be clear, Jon, I am not advocating "fixing" anything. I am simply asking for truth in advertising. This is not a modern "sport crag" and should not be referred to as such. True sport crags do not usually have areas where a routine fall will result in a broken ankle

I would prefer if the Area Description used Steve's words:
"old-school, first generation sport crag."

Having run all these routes again yesterday I agree with Jon that, no, nothing should be retro'd. All the bolts are still in good shape (no spinners, no movement). The runouts are part of the "spice" of the wall, which I quite enjoy; if you're concerned, place a piece in between (a #1 or #.75 is all you'll need for any of the routes). However, I disagree about the top anchors which are just a plain pain in the ass; those should be replaced simply to get rid of all the rat's nests webbing, cord & tat that keeps accumulating. It's kind of a stretch to say that by putting in better top anchors this is going to turn into a "kiddie wall."

On a related note, there's been plenty broken off of Toxic Socks to warrant a 9+ (well, if you stay on the face all the way up).

I think of Upper Gibraltar and Toxic Waste Wall as basically the same crag. I typically start at the left end of TWW and work my way right towards Upper Gib. There aren't too many places within an hour's drive of SB that you can knock out a half dozen or so pretty good routes in a half day. So I stand by my description of "high quality" relative to the other choices available in the area. As I have mentioned in several route descriptions, take a light rack to supplement bolt protection, and you should be fine. There may not be a bolt every body length, but I certainly wouldn't call it overly runout, dangerous or scary (if you are looking for that, go lead some of the routes at San Ysidro!).

I agree that it makes sense to replace the existing rat's nest of webbing with camo'ed hangers/chains where warranted. If anyone wants to take that on, I'm willing to lend a hand.