Wonderfully subtle face climbing on marginal holds--you must have mastered this surface to hold-on. Simply "visionary."
This route climbs the face 8 feet right of the SY-classic "Vanishing Flakes." Climb past a mangled lead bolt without hanger and up to the second bolt of Flakes. Give your feet a break on a small ledge before stepping up and right on a blank face.
Finish on the upper half of Rockoco.
Mostly a top-rope or a solo.
Protection
I have not led the lower face (ie the crux) of this route. I can say from a distance that the only pro on the bottom 40 feet is 1 bolt (the second bolt of Vanishing Flakes).
Gear: 1-2 inches for the 5.5 crack above, which is shared with Rockoco & Flakes.
Two 1/2" wedge bolts with chains for a top-anchor (shared with Rockoco and Flakes).
By andy patterson Administrator From: Santa Barbara, CA Jun 27, 2008
Leading Young William is an exercise in mental/calf-muscle focus. I didn't have enough of either and fell off before clipping the first bolt. Luckily, the higher you go, the easier it gets (sort of). I'd recommend a crashpad (or two, or three) for the start. Think of this route as a 20 foot V4 or V5 boulder problem. Maybe that doesn't help... it's still a long way to climb with no pro.
too bad. it's a bit of an ankle breaker. don't fall!
By Matthew Fienup Administrator From: Ventura, CA Jul 12, 2008
To say "chopped" is being a bit generous. The person beat the snot out of it.
I have heard through the grape vine that the individual who did this was put-off by the presence of a new lead bolt on an old route. That individual's answer to the offense was to do further damage to the route--the same thing that happened atop Fine Line around this saMe time. When the first leAd bolt on Applied Magnetics was removed aRound this same time, it got a proper (and rather artful) patch job...thanKfully.
San Ysidro (Lower)
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