A local trad hardman boldly leading where few have...
Description
Start on steep jugs, gain a wide crack, climb past a potentially loose horn, then fire through a series of strenuous finger-locks to a small roof. Pull the roof into more burly finger-locks, then traverse off to the left to exit. If you feel bold, go straight up to finish on a difficult and run-out boulder problem which pushes the grade up to a 5.11d. Makunaima is rarely led and often top-roped.
Location
Obvious line up center face of the shaded cove on the North side of the crag. You can't miss this one.
Protection
Wide (#4 Camelot) to fingers. Doubles in fingers not a bad idea if you feel nervous.
I don't know about "few" leads. It's been led a ton. It's just that the wall has about 10 routes across it and most of the locals have (or maybe had) it wired, so running laps was the general activity. These days it's a lot quieter up there. Great wall, though.
Its a sweet route. However with soft sandstone and a "loose horn" save the lead for a route that gets more sun and has better rock. Keep it clean and bring some clippers to help maintain the trail.
Amazing route! Well worth the modest but strenuous hike (if you're spoiled by the likes of the Nose approach). Thought I'd clarify the gear beta. Smallest cam: .4 BD or yellow TCU. Biggest cam: you can place a new #4 BD, or could get by with #3. Probably want doubles of most of these sizes unless you have it wired. 3 bolts at the top, so take one or two long cords for the TR.
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